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Showing posts with label wildlife. Show all posts
Showing posts with label wildlife. Show all posts

April 02, 2026

Memorable moments: Raspy tongues and greasy pots

When I was sixteen, I went on a school trip to the Okavango Delta in Botswana. It was a sensory-overloaded, extraordinary experience—gliding through secret waterways in a dugout canoe and watching the wildlife drift past.

However, the reality of camping on an island in the Delta involved a fair amount of "suffer-fest" labor. We were a participatory group, which meant everyone shared the chores. The worst of these was the washing up. With no detergent and no hot water, trying to scrub the grease off metal pots and plates was an exercise in futility and frustration. One of my classmates, Peter, took a particular dislike to the task, spending most of the first night complaining bitterly about the state of our cookware.

On the second night, exhausted and defeated by the grime, we were given permission to leave the dirty pots and plates until the morning light.

In the middle of the night, the atmosphere shifted. A clan of hyenas arrived, circling our tents with their eerie, guttural chortling. I remember the smell—it was thick, wild, and incredibly pungent. Lying in my sleeping bag, listening to them sniff around just inches from the canvas, was terrifying. Eventually, the sounds faded, and the "smelly" visitors disappeared into the bush.

The next morning, we braced ourselves for the greasy cleanup. Instead, we found that our cookware had undergone a professional-grade restoration. Every single pot and plate had been scoured to a mirror finish. The hyenas had spent the night using their incredibly raspy tongues—which would have put any metal scourer to shame—to lick every molecule of fat from the metal.

While the rest of us were still shaking off the fear of the night's visitors, Peter was absolutely ecstatic.

"We’ve solved it!" he shouted, holding up a sparkling pot. "We can do this again tonight! No more need to clean the plates!"

March 25, 2026

Memorable moments: Three times I nearly became part of the food chain

I love wildlife reserves. There’s something magical about them—vast landscapes, incredible animals… and the constant, underlying possibility that something might kill you. From the deserts of Botswana to the shower blocks of South Africa, these three encounters taught me that nature doesn't care about your dignity, your itinerary, or your rental car’s insurance excess.

The Botswana Scorpion Siege

At sixteen, I learned that Botswana doesn't just have sunsets; it has traps. When our tyre exploded in the pitch-black desert on the way to the Okavango, we had no choice but to pitch tents by the roadside. As we fumbled in the dark, someone casually remarked that something "soft and tickly" had just brushed his bare foot. I realized, with a sudden jolt of electricity, that I’d felt the same thing.

We flicked on the torches, and the ground didn't just move—it heaved. It was like the snake pit in Indiana Jones, only the snakes had been replaced by a carpet of scorpions the size of human hands, all tails up and ready for war.

We immediately initiated a frantic "military operation" to reclaim our territory, shaking scorpions out of tents and—to our horror—finding them already nestled in our sleeping bags. In the ensuing struggle, we suffered one very unfortunate casualty: a sting to a little toe.

The "surgery" that followed was pure frontier melodrama. With a twig between his teeth for the pain and two pretty girls holding his hands for moral support, his toe was sliced open with a sterilized blade. I’m still not sure what hurt him more—the venom or the fact that his life was in the hands of a group of teenagers with a campfire aesthetic and a very sharp knife.


The Mkuzi Naked Exodus

Years later, I was heading for a quiet shower at Mkuzi National Park. I was five metres from the block when the screaming started. Suddenly, naked bodies began flying out of windows and doors like a synchronized swimming routine gone horribly wrong.

The cause? A Black Mamba. It’s one thing to face a predator when you’re armed and booted; it’s quite another when you are at your most vulnerable, clutching a towel and a bar of soap, facing a snake that can outrun a professional sprinter.


The Kruger Standoff

Finally, there was the Elephant. With the Kruger gates closing in twenty minutes and a hefty fine looming, I found my path blocked by a massive bull elephant munching on a freshly toppled tree.

Every time I edged the car forward, he stopped eating and flared his ears—the elephant equivalent of a "Keep Off the Grass" sign backed by lethal force. It was a choice between a one-hour detour or a leap of faith. Reminding myself that fortune favours the brave (and the budget-conscious), I floored it.

As I sped past, I could swear he feigned a lunge with his tusks. I didn't look back to check. I was too busy calculating the insurance excess on a "tusk-shaped hole" in a rental car door.

I’ve since learned that several motorists have had their cars flipped by those very bulls. If I’d known that then, I probably would have just paid the fine—or moved into the park permanently.

September 22, 2023

Exploring Chitwan National Park from Sauraha

I spent a wonderful 6 nights at Gaida Lodge in the town of Sauraha which is situated right next to the Chitwan National Park.  I hired a wonderful birding guide, Bishnu, to take me on walking trips each day.  Guides are compulsory in and around the park but in retrospect, I would have wanted to hire him anyway. Not only was there a beautiful connection between us based on a mutual love of birds but he was also able to see countless birds I probably would have missed. He holds the record for the most Nepalese bird species seen in a single day. 

My itinerary during my time here:

Day 1: Arrive, settle into the lodge, meet Bishnu, do an afternoon bird walk in the community forrest. Highlight: Jungle owlett.

Day 2: Canoe trip down the Rapti River, disembark into the Chitwan National Park, do a day walk through the park back to the lodge.

Day 3: Morning bird walk in the community forrest.  Jeep safari in the park.

Day 4: Morning bird walk in the community forrest. Highlight: Photos of Common kingfisher.

Day 5: Morning birdwatching in the farmlands by bike. Highlight: Painted snipe.

Day 6: Morning birdwatching in the farmlands by bike.

Day 7: Catch an early bus back to Kathmandu.



The hotel where I stayed


Birdwatching walks


My wonderful birding guide, Bishnu

An abandoned lodge consumed by the jungle








Chitwan National Park canoo and walk








Farmland birding by bike




Sunset on the river





Deer in the national park

Sambar Deer (Male)

Spotted Deer

Spotted Deer

Indian Hog Deer (?)

Spotted Deer

Spotted Deer

Spotted Deer


Monkeys

Rhesus Monkey


Elephant




Sandpipers, Plovers, Snipes

Green and Wood Sandpiper

Wood Sandpiper

Great Painted Snipe

Little Ringed Plover

Little Ringed Plover

Grey-headed Lapwing


Storks


Asian Openbill

Asian Openbill

Lesser Adjutant

Bee eaters

Chestnut-headed Bee-eater

Chestnut-headed Bee-eater


Kingfishers

Common Kingfisher

Common Kingfisher

White-throated Kingfisher

Woodpeckers


Common Flameback

Greater Flameback

Greater Flameback

Lesser Yellownape


Hornbill


Oriental Pied Hornbill

Oriental Pied Hornbill

Oriental Pied Hornbill, Cormorant


Seedeaters


Scaly-breasted Munia

Scaly-breasted Munia

Baya Weaver

Tricoloured Munia


Egrets and herons


Intermediate and Little Egrets

Little Egret

Intermediate Egret


Pond heron


Pigeon

Green Pigeon

Green pigeon


Coucal

Greater Coucal

Greater Coucal


Owls

Jungle Owlett

Jungle Owlett


Eagles


 Crested Serpent Eagle

Changeable Hawk Eagle


Other birds



White-rumped Shama

White-rumped Shama

Green Parakeet

Dollar Bird

Red-vented Bulbul

Chestnut-tailed Starling

Red-whiskered bulbul

Eurasion Hoopoe

Black-naped Oriole

Rufus Tree Pie

Forktailed Drongo

Long-tailed Shrike


Spotted Dove

Crow

Left to Right: Wood Snipe, Lineated Barbet, Chestnut-capped Babbler, Red-naped Ibis

White-browed wagtail 


Plants and butterflies



Common Mormon (female)

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