Our Trip to North Island (New Zealand) with Mum and Mike

Mum kept a dairy on our travels which wondefully explains all the we did. So I am blogging it here as a record. Thanks mum!

----------------------------------------------------------------------------

CHRISTCHURCH – WELLINGTON – 1ST MARCH
We finally reached the hotel at 5 p.m. and found Ally and G had a room across the passage from us. Ally had found a seafood restaurant recommended in the Lonely Planet and both Mike and I were very impressed how G & A managed to get us there. G is not used to driving a large car and it was teeming with rain and Wellington is a mass of one way roads. Ally is a master navigator and we found it with no problem. Finding a parking space was another matter!

Three of us had scallops mornay which were fabulous and Ally had a seafood hot pot - a mixture between soup and a stew. We were all so shattered we then went our separate ways - Mike to watch rugby and the rest of us to sleep.

WELLINGTON – 2ND MARCH
We woke to blue sky so Ally, Mike and I walked down an incredibly steep hill and found a Starbucks for coffee and a muffin for breakfast. G was still asleep. Mike and I decided to let Ally walk back up the hill to collect G while we made our way to the Te Papa Museum and they could meet us there. We later discovered we could get up and down via escalators and a lift right from our hotel but by then it was too late.
Because we were early, Mike and I walked a bit further and found a wonderful fresh produce market and they were even selling fish directly from a boat. We bought 4 new season apples which were delicious.
G & A actually met us as the museum opened and we spent a fascinating four hours learning more about the Maori culture and history of NZ.
As we left the museum the wind was again howling and huge rain drops started but we decided to go up the cable car anyway and in fact the rain cleared and we were able to walk right through the botanic gardens which run right from the top of the cable car down into the city. We bought return tickets but ended up walking down. The Lady Norwood Rose Garden and the Begonia House were particularly spectacular. We had planned to take a conducted tour of the Parliament buildings but spent too much time in the garden so were too late.
Anyway after our walk in the botanic gardens in Wellington we found a super market and stocked up on a few items and had chicken and salad in our room for supper. Ally, being ultra organised, had brought cutlery with her from Australia and we bought plastic plates so are now set up for our travels.

NAPIER – 3rd MARCHMore rain greeted us when we woke in the morning and Graeme was bitterly disappointed as it meant our trip to Kapiti Island was cancelled. This was to be G's birding day which he had really been looking forward to because it has many bird species that are now rare or extinct on the mainland. However they still strive on the island. Access there is strictly limited and Ally had booked the permits months ago.
We had to re think our plans and started off stopping at Paraparaumu - even the locals have problems saying it. It apparently means "scraps of food in an oven". The beach was desolate and it was bitterly cold so we found a wonderful patisserie and had coffee and freshly baked Danish pastries for breakfast instead.
We then went to Nga Manu Nature Reserve where we explored the last remnant of coastal lowland swamp forest to be found on the Kapiti coast along with its interesting native flora and fauna.
There was a lovely bushwalk, observation points and protected aviaries and a nocturnal house where we finally saw two North Island brown kiwis. Obviously G wanted to see birds in the wild so he was delighted to sight two new species on our walk - two tui and woodpigeon. The latter don't sound very exciting but are in fact enormous and very colourful.
We then joined a guide who took us into some of the aviaries where she fed the possum - much bigger than we expected and the kiwis and we could hand feed the keo and the kaka. It was a most enjoyable morning despite the wind and rain.
We stopped for a picnic lunch but had to make the sandwiches in the car and it was still raining when we finally reached Napier (some 350 kms covered). We are staying in a Top 10 Holiday Park. Our unit consists of two bedrooms, an open plan lounge/kitchen with 2 hotplates and a microwave and a flat screen TV. There are wonderful facilities for children two including an enormous jumping thing (rather like an adult version of a jumping castle/trampoline. G & A just wish it would stop raining so they could try it out! Everything is immaculate and very well maintained. There are similar places all over New Zealand and if we ever come again we will certainly drive ourselves and make use of them.
While I used the internet last night Ally and Mike went grocery shopping and Ally made spaghetti bolognese - a home cooked meal tasted delicious.

NAPIER – 4TH MARCHIt poured with rain all night - the Donnelly's have broken the drought and all New Zealanders are very happy!
We decided to start our day with a walk to see the Art Deco buildings which were erected after the tragic 1931 earthquake which devastated this area. Ally studied the art deco period for matric so wanted to see the main buildings but after visiting Prague, we were not over impressed although we enjoyed the walk (all wrapped up in rain gear and fleeces). Napier in the sun must be very pretty. There is a long Marine Parade and some excellent shops (which we only looked at from outside!)
After our walk we found ourselves right outside the museum/art gallery which apart from more Maori artefacts and history of their culture also contained a large area devoted to the earthquake which was fascinating and very moving. There was a 45 minute movie showing scenes of the devastation and interviewing actual victims (now in their 80's) who reminisced about the day that has affected their lives for ever.
By now everyone was starving and Ally directed us to a cheese/wine area where we had the most amazing cheese platters for lunch. After our experience in Queenstown we did not know what to expect but this was a different story and the platters were generous with three different cheeses and masses of bread, biscuits and unusual chutneys. We all had total overloads of cheese and will not be allowed to think of eating any more of it for at least a week! We then went on to two wine farms - a sensible idea to eat first to help mop it up! Graeme does not drink wine at all as it gives him terrible indigestion so we had no problem with a designated driver. In fact we did not try much but it was interesting to see how they do things compared to SA. We only had one glass which they did not even rinse between tastings which Mike objected to so he washed his own glass each time! The wineries are very pretty but do not look anything like as picturesque as there are no mountains surrounding them. Instead of buying a case of something we bought one single bottle at each winery. The car is full to the brim as it is!
The car incidentally is bright red - a Ford something or other and very snazzy and very powerful. G & A are used to a Toyota Corolla (an old one at that) so it has taken some adjusting to drive this powerful automatic but it has lots of leg room and could get up a hill if there was one even with us all on board with no problem whatsoever! My family have gone on a 22 km hike and I am about to go on a much shorter one - three hours which sounded better! Mike was not sure whether to go on the long one but with Graeme and Ally taking the backpacks (which were unbelievably heavy with all the water they needed) he chose to go with them. Hopefully the weather will remain fine.

ROTORUA – 5TH MARCH
We awoke to continued torrential rain which made the first three quarters of the drive to Rotorua very unpleasant for Graeme who was at the wheel. For the first time we had difficulty finding somewhere open with a toilet but eventually stopped at a trucker’s place where they were serving enormous breakfasts for far less than anywhere we have been before. Mike was seriously tempted but not allowed to stay.
We arrived at Cosy Cottages early but they let us leave our luggage. The previous people had obviously cooked curry and the smell was very strong but with the aid of an ioniser they cleared it somewhat.
We went to Te Paia crafts men centre en route but decided that R300 each was too expensive. Instead we went to Kuirua Park where we saw bubbling mud and wonderful eerie small lakes covered in steam. We also had a wonderful soak at the Polynesian Spa which relaxed all the stiff back muscles caused by all the car/coach travel.
We found the most beautiful Maori Church - St Faith's Ohinemutu where there was a graveyard for ex Maori servicemen.
We were collected outside our accommodation at 6.30 p.m. and taken to Tomaki Maori Village for a Maori Cultural evening covering language and history followed by a hangi. A hangi is a meal cooked in a pit. A large fire is made with volcanic rocks on top and once these are red hot they are moved into a pit and the food is layered in huge pots on top, covered with we hessian sacking and then earth is put on top. A bit like a poikie under the ground. It was all delicious with fish, mussels, chicken and lamb followed by a steamed pudding (cooked in the hangi) and pavlova with fruit salad (not cooked under the ground!)
On the way to Tomaki, while we were in the coach, the driver chose a chief to represent our tribe. Graeme was the chosen man and had to participate in a number of special ceremonies - including rubbing noses with endless genuine Maori warriors - some of whom were pretty ferocious looking! At the end of the evening he was presented with a special carving to remember the day he was "chief" which Ally will keep in her printer’s tray.

TAUPO - 6TH MARCH  We woke to sunshine - it is amazing how a bright day lifts everyone's spirits. We only had a short distance to cover but left at 9 a.m. in order to be in situ for when the Lady Knox Geyser erupted at 10.15 a.m. We were wondering how they could guarantee an eruption at the exact time but at 10.10 a ranger arrived and explained that there is a huge hot lake of water under the ground with a cold layer above it. Put some soap down the volcanic like crater and it sets the whole thing off. It would naturally erupt every 2 - 3 days otherwise. It can reach heights of up to 20 metres. We did not see it reach so high but it was still an amazing spectacle.
We then did a wonderful walk round the whole of Wai-O-Tapu Thermal Wonderland and saw spectacular boiling mud pools, bubbling, hissing water with ochre coloured petrified edges, lakes, huge volcanic craters, steam vents and mineral terraces along all the tracks. The different colours caused by different minerals were amazing and I just hope our numerous photos will capture it all.
We then went to Haku Falls (haku meaning foam) - not quite Vic Falls but beautiful aqua coloured water. We watched people in a jet boat go right up to the falls and from the shouts they got pretty wet but were having great fun.
Our next port of call was the Craters of the Moon which again had a circular walk round all the craters. Two of the craters erupted in 2002 and it was the largest eruption in a decade. The surrounding paths and boardwalk were covered with mud, ask and pumice to a depth of 5 cm.
Our accommodation at Taupo DeBretts Thermal Resort was first class. We had a lovely cabin with 2 large bedrooms, both with king size beds, a shower room and separate toilet plus a large lounge/kitchen with a dishwasher! We had a wonderful view of the sunset as we had our snacks before supper. We had previously spent 2 hours relaxing in the thermal pools. Mike's back had gone into spasm but the hot water and jets helped considerably.
The owner of the complex heard there were South African there and came over for a long chat. His son had worked in Botswana so he had spent 6 weeks travelling in SA when he came over to visit. There were several SA working there including a young pilot who fills in at the resort when he needs extra cash.
I forgot to mention we also stopped at the Bee Hive ostensibly to ask directions. However the Bee Hive was a very interesting place/. They sell every conceivable thing that can be created with honey to the most delightful children's clothing - bright yellow plastic bee macs!
There was a huge table with at least 20 jars of different honey to taste including honey peanut butter. The men loved it but Ally and I, who are not honey fans, found another section where they had honey wine and liquors to taste. It ended up being an expensive stop as we bought various items to take back to Australia!

NATIONAL PARKS VILLAGE – 7TH MARCH
we went for a walk around Taipo Lake after leaving and were soon surrounded by numerous ducks expecting food. There was one Canadian goose which had completely lost one wing and had obviously been adopted by the mallards. There was no way it would ever fly again. There was also one mallard with a huge growth under one eye which was obviously affecting its balance.
It was only about 75 kms to Tongariro National Park and we stopped at the main information centre to get more details of the Alpine Trail. It was raining when we arrived buy the forecast for today was good and the sun was out when we woke up.
We had a very pleasant late afternoon walk to Tawahi Falls. The paths were well signposted and maintained. Some hikes are very difficult but the maps are explicit so it is clear what to expect and what gear is essential. Weather here can be very unpredictable and one has to have clothing for 4 seasons and a minimum of 3 litres of water per person for the longer hikes.
We played scrabble again last night. G is the usual winner and I lost horribly but with 7 vowels there is little one can do. Thanks all of you for letters - congratulations to all the Newtons on the new baby and we are sorry you are all roasting in Cape Town! The smell at Rotorua was not bad at all even though we were staying right in town - maybe it was just you and your ultra sensitive nose Jo!!

NATIONAL PARKS VILLAGE – 8TH MARCH
Mike and G & A achieved their goal and made the walk although Mike says it is the last one he will do of that length and difficulty. They were all pretty shattered but pleased with themselves when they returned.

While they did the hike I went up Mount Ruapehu on the ski lift. It was absolutely terrifying. The last time I went on a ski lift was in Canada in 1992 (I think) but I don't remember being so scared! Maybe being on my own and having to get on and off the ski chairs which don't stop made the difference. I had to go on two lifts to get to the top but it took almost half an hour but was well worth it in the end. It was incredibly cold getting there but lovely and warm at the top. The scree was too steep and slippery to walk around very far especially without proper boots but I had a hot chocolate and enjoyed watching all the different people as they arrived.

HAHEI – 9TH MARCH
Everyone woke remarkably not too stiff after their marathon walk. We had a long day ahead so were on the road soon after 8 a.m. so we could be at the Waitomo Caves to see the glow worms by 10.30 We had to take a tour and it was rather regimented because there were so many people wanting to go. We were not allowed to take photos which was understandable but still a pity because the sheer number of glow worms was amazing and the shapes and patterns they created were absolutely beautiful. We were told to be silent which some of the Germans in our group seemed to find impossible and there were lots of "shushes" going on!

Ally had actually booked us on a double tour so on exiting the Waitomo Caves we were taken up the road in a small bus to the Ruakuri Caves. This was completely different in that our group was small and led by a very well informed guy we think was a geologist. We did the 1.6 km walk through the caves which have only recently opened. The caves are directly under a farm so the farmer opened them to the public years ago but the government decided they belonged to them. A long court case followed and the farmer regained his caves but the only accessible entrance turned out not to be under his farm at all! Now the government and the farmer share the profits so everyone is happy! Sensibly they limit the numbers allowed in and monitor the carbon dioxide levels to ensure the caves are now damaged. The caves themselves were stunning with the most amazing rock formations, stalactites and stalagmites and fossils. There were also glow worms but in must smaller quantities so we were delighted we had the chance to see both places.

We then had 300 or so kms to cover to get to Hahei. Although the road was classified a major highway, NZ and SA highways are very different and this one was mainly like the curvier parts of Ou Kaapse Weg. The driver really had to concentrate the whole time.

We are staying in "The Church" which is exactly what it was. The actual church is now a restaurant but wooden chalets have been built in the gardens all with arched windows. The garden is mainly planted with succulents which has given Ally ideas for when they eventually find a house. They are very attractive and in some lovely colours.

HAHEI – 10TH MARCH
What a wonderful few days we have had. On Monday we did not realise that breakfast was included at The Church and were greeted with freshly baked berry muffins which went down very well and set us up for the walk to Cathedral Cove where a dramatic cathedral shaped cavern is accessible at low tide and there is a beautiful white headland. The book says "reasonable fitness is required to reach the cove but panoramic cliff top views make the effort worthwhile".

There seemed to be endless steep climbs up and then down to get there and an amazing number of steps too but it was wonderful when we got there - but the thought of all the steps back up was not as appealing but used up all the muffin calories!

There were caves to explore and we timed it perfectly as the tide was on the way out. The sun shone the whole morning and we also went to Stingray Bay (yet more steep paths and hundreds more steps) but as we reached the car the sky became very black and as we got back to The Church the heavens opened. We had passed a number of families going down laden with cooler boxes etc. for picnic lunches and they must have got drenched.

Later in the afternoon we went to Hot Water Beach where one digs your own thermal spa in the sand at low tide. There were masses of people all doing the same thing and it was quite difficult finding a spot which wasn't completely cold or else boiling hot - it reminded me of the three bears and their porridge!

We were eventually asked to join another couple - S Africans about to emigrate . It was a complete league of nations and an extremely friendly place with everyone comparing places they had visited and recommending their favourites.

We had take away pizzas for supper sitting on our balcony until the mosquitos won and we had to seek safety inside. I am covered in lumps and bumps because they all seem to choose me first! Mike has not got one single bite which I find very frustrating.

BAY OF ISLANDS – 11TH MARCH
It was 400 kms to get to the Bay of Islands - not originally on our itinerary but Antony said it was "not to be missed". Six hours of driving narrow z bend roads we were telling ourselves "this had better be worth it"! Mike was in agony with his back - an old problem aggravated by sitting in the car. He was trying to be brave but it was clear he was in severe pain. Sitting in the boat with my head craned back for half an hour or so looking at the glow worms had given me a very stiff neck - I could hardly move it in any direction - what a total pair of cricks!

We finally reached Paihia at 4 p.m. and were thrilled to find a beautiful apartment with a wonderful sea view. Ally went off to the local supermarket while I organised two loads of washing - G & M lay down and snoozed - doesn't that sound typical!! We then all went for a spa before sitting outside and having supper. We came in to find the lounge swarming with crickets and mosquitos.

BAY OF ISLANDS – 12TH MARCH
We awoke to another magical day and Antony was right - the Bay of Islands is stunning. We have been so lucky with weather and when it has mattered the sun has shone (except for G's birding trip).

We were collected at 7.15 and our first venture was to view the dolphins and, if possible, to swim with them. It took a couple of hours to find a pod - fortunately all adults because one cannot swim with juveniles or babies.

Mike had already decided not to swim as he was concerned about getting on and off the boat with his back and I chickened out at the last moment when I realised how far and how hard one had to swim. I did not want to drown and am just not a strong enough swimmer. However G & A had a wonderful time and it is definitely a major highlight for them both. While they were swimming Mike and I went on to the bow of the boat and watched the dolphins playing. It was very special. We were then dropped off at an island for a couple of hours where we walked to a viewpoint and then dozed in the afternoon sun while G & A thawed out from their swim.

Later we joined a larger boat and went to the Hole in the Rock where conditions were perfect and we could go right through. It really is an amazing rock formation. There were also enormous shoals of small fish having feeding frenzies which were fascinating to watch and the water was so crystal clear one had a great view.

We have just returned to our apartment and I am now going to have a cup of tea before using the spa again. I could get used to this!

AUCKLAND – 12TH MARCH
We drove straight through to Auckland because Mike was and still is having back problems. He is ok when walking but sitting is a serious problem and getting out of a chair is a major and painful achievement. Hitting the traffic coming across the Auckland Bridge and town was no fun for the driver or navigator so having dropped our cases we caught a bus back to the Sky Tower which, according to New Zealanders, is taller than the Eiffel Tower. We met a young man in the lift who was about to do the sky jump from the tower - mad. I had trouble even getting close to the windows to look out and could not walk over the glass areas on the floors either. However the views were spectacular and we all enjoyed it.

G & A then had to get us back to North Auckland where we all went for a "barbie" with Mike's old fishing buddy. Dieter and Sheena and their whole family left SA 14 years ago. Life has been really hard after they invested all their money into a business venture which went badly wrong so now, at 68, they both have to work. However they are still 100% certain they did the right thing by leaving.

AUCKLAND – 14TH MARCH
G & A were very tired so we decided to do our own thing and give them some time alone. We went to the museum which was so fascinating we spent 4 hours there before going on to the botanical gardens. The idea was then to catch a city loop bus and do the complete circuit but someone thought he could read a map better than me. We went the wrong way, ended up nowhere near the bus route and, by the time we had retraced our steps it was raining so we gave up and went back to our room and Mike watched cricket lying down.

We had to be out of the hotel by 10 a.m. on Saturday so got to Auckland airport early only to find Air New Zealand had two 747's out of action and our flight had already been put back 2 hours. We were given the option of waiting and possible further delays or catching a plane to Brisbane with Air NZ and then transferring to Quantas for the onward flight to Sydney. A democratic vote followed, G was outnumbered and we went to Brisbane. It turned out to be the best solution - we were upgraded and both flights were only half full.

We eventually got to G & A's flat at 7.30 p.m. and were mesmerised by the magnificent views over the river, the opera house and the bridge. We have seen photos before but the reality of it is amazing. We even had a free fire work display which suddenly started around 9 p.m. and from the 14th floor had a prime view.

SYDNEY – 15TH MARCH
Our peaceful night's sleep was somewhat shattered by the fire alarms going off at 5 a.m. They went on and on so three of us got up, dressed and went down 14 flights of stairs to join the other owners and tenants on the lawns outside. Two large fire engines arrived but it was thankfully a false alarm. Graeme refused to get up and go downstairs saying if his time was up so be it and he carried on sleeping.

When we were finally allowed back in, thankfully the lift was operating because I would not have been happy having to climb all those stairs! Mike and I found it impossible to go back to sleep so spent time looking through all the leaflets Ally has collected giving us ideas of what to do over the next three weeks. After this morning’s debacle I am typing this as a word document so I don’t lose it. Elaine does this all the time. Yesterday, our first day in Sydney, Mike and I went off to learn how to get around Sydney with Ally as our guide. We will be using the ferries as we can catch one just down the road so bought ourselves a weekly ticket. Interestingly enough, none of the guide books tells the tourist about this facility which works out far cheaper – I wonder why not! We can also use the ferry pass on local buses and trains too.

SYDNEY – 16TH MARCH
On Sundays there is a street market at “The Rocks” which was great fun. There were lots of different stalls – some excellent with indigenous arts and crafts, fresh produce etc. but also the inevitable kitsch! We arrived back at the flat at about 2.30 and a little later went to visit Eva and Brendan at their house overlooking Mosman Cove. (Eva and Brendan are old friends of Jo and Antony’s and I have met them several times before.) There is direct access to the water by going down a steep spiral staircase and then clambering over barnacled rocks – not my idea of heaven but the water was incredibly warm and inviting and we had a fabulous swim.

I came back to the house the long way round which was much easier – up the road! No-one mentioned it until after I had gone the barnacled route. Eva and Brendan are having difficulty (like G & A) finding a house they can afford as lovely as the place they are renting. They also have a five year old daughter so schooling comes into it.

Trip to North Island, New Zealand

.
Read mum's dairy of our holiday together


Hot Water Beach (Hahei).




Polynesian Spa (Rotarua)
.



Volcano Walk (Auckland)
.

Sky Tower (Auckland)






Botanical Gardens (Wellington)
.






Mauri Art (Te Papa Tongarewa Museum, Wellington)
.




Mauri Evening (Rotorua)  
.




Tongariro Crossing  
.

Waka Falls
.


Ruakuri Caves
..




Rotarua Thermal Lakes 
.

Lady Knox Gueser (Rotarua)
..



Craters of the Moon (Rotarua)
.



Boiling Mud Pools (Rotarua)
.



Cathedral Cove (Hahei)
.

Bay of Islands 
.

Myburghian Leaps
.