}
Showing posts with label Drakensberg. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Drakensberg. Show all posts

April 05, 2026

Memorable moments: The potjie and the peaks

In 2015, I was backpacking through South Africa with my friend Chrisel. We arrived at a hostel nestled in the shadow of the magnificent Drakensberg mountains and discovered they had a potjie—the traditional, heavy cast-iron cauldron used for slow-cooking over an open fire.

We went to the local shop and loaded up on supplies: lamb, heaps of vegetables, and stock. Back at the hostel, I set about building the fire in the garden. It wasn't something I did often, and the pressure of "getting it right" started to mount.

As the oil began to sizzle, the stress took over. I became obsessed with the mechanics of the meal—searing the meat, tossing the vegetables, frantically moving everything around to ensure nothing burnt before the liquid went in. Chrisel told me to relax and leave it be, but I snapped back, convinced that one wrong move would ruin the entire day's investment. I was totally lost in the drama of the pot, my world shrinking down to a few square inches of bubbling iron.

Finally, after an hour of intense, fixated labor, the water and stock were added. The lid went on. The "crisis" was over; the stew just had to simmer for the next three hours.

I stood up, my body stiff from crouching, and finally looked up from the dirt.

The sight hit me like a physical wave. The spectacular peaks of the Drakensberg were looking down at me, ancient and unmoved. The trees in the hostel garden were swaying gently in a soft afternoon breeze. I could hear the rhythmic twittering of birds darting to and fro. It was a scene of absolute, unwavering peace.

I realized then, with a visceral jolt, that while I had been trapped in a self-made prison of stress and "culinary emergency," this peace had been present the entire time. It hadn't gone anywhere; I had simply tuned it out. I hadn't been mindful. I had been living in a mental simulation of a disaster while standing in the middle of paradise.

The Drakensberg didn't care about my burnt lamb, and the wind didn't care about my irritation. They were simply being. That realization remains the foundation of my daily practice. When the world feels loud or the "stew" of my life feels like it’s burning, I go outside. I look at the greenery, feel the air, and listen to the birds. By choosing my senses over my thoughts, I find the peace that was there all along. It’s the ultimate way to wake up.

March 24, 2026

Memorable moments: The wailing waterfall

I was on a guided hike to the summit of the Drakensberg. At the very top, a pristine rock pool sat perched right at the lip of a massive waterfall, its water spilling over the edge into the abyss below. It was a scene of rugged beauty—and the perfect stage for some high-altitude bravado.

There was a girl in the group I was particularly keen to impress. I figured a fearless, mid-air leap into that infinity pool would cement my status as the alpha-adventurer of the expedition. I took a breath, channeled my inner action hero, and launched myself off the ledge.

The moment I hit the surface, the laws of thermodynamics struck back. The water wasn't just cold; it was a liquid ice-pick that instantly vacuum-sealed my lungs. Every ounce of "cool" evaporated in a millisecond.

As the current began nudging me toward the edge of the falls, I produced a noise usually reserved for a cat being dunked in an ice bath. I scrambled for the rocks, limbs flailing like a panicked crab, desperate to escape the liquid nitrogen before I became a permanent part of the scenery at the bottom of the mountain.

I went in hoping to look like a mountain god; I left looking like a man who had just been electrocuted by a puddle at three thousand metres.

May 07, 2015

Hiking to the Tugela Falls in The Northern Drakensberg

And here we are now at the highlight of the whole Baz bus trip: a hike to The Tugela Falls in the Northern Drakensberg, the 2nd highest waterfall in the world at 3400 metres. This is possibly the best hike I've ever done. The scenery was so spectacular that I had to keep pinching myself. I'm so totally in love with The Drakensberg.  I can't wait to come back here.














Just look at the scale of that rock face.  You almost expect to see the faces of American presidents carved into them!




Lovely flowers along the way.
A steep climb up a narrow gully ...

... brought us out onto the ceiling of the world.

Beautiful and exhilarating.





The iciest leap into water I've ever done. In fact, it was so frightfully cold my heart nearly stopped. But then what do you expect at 3400 metres!

Climbing down the chain ladders on the way down was a nice little adrenaline rush!

There were plenty more awe inspiring views on the walk back.



Here I am with our awesome guide.

The Amphitheatre Backpackers has to one of the best backpackers I've ever stayed at.

Such a relaxing setting...

... with a lovely bar, chill out spaces and even a jacuzzi!  The restaurant served the most amazing food - three courses every night.

From the backpackers, there was a beautiful walk through the grasslands...

... with a gorgeous mountain backdrop.

The grassland flowers were absolutely spectacular.



May 05, 2015

Doing the Gxalingenwa hike in The Southern Drakensberg

Oh how I love the mountains. And no mountain comes more beautiful than The Drakensberg.  I absolutely loved my time here - so good for the soul.  I'm so grateful to Chrisèl for inspiring me to come here.  

Our first stop was the Southern Drakensberg where we stayed at the lovely and very tranquil Sani Pass Backpackers.  

Highlights of the two nights here included:
  • Delicious home made pancakes with lots of gooey cheese.
  • Homemade marzipan from the little shop.
  • Making a scrumptious omelette with home made herbs from the garden and blue cheese.
  • Doing the stunning Gxalingenwa Hike which started right at the backpackers.  6 hours long, it took us up onto a plateau, then further up and over a little pass and down into a river gorge where I got to leap into a freezing green mountain pool. Then a walk along the lip of the gorge back to civilisation past some of the hugest granite boulders I've ever seen.
  • Seeing a Cape Vulture.
  • Doing a naughty short cut over a fence to visit a waterfall on the walk back, and cutting off lots of walking along the road.
  • Chilling out in the peaceful garden after the hike, watching the sun set.
  • Lazing by the fire at night, reading, and snuggling up to the cats.  One of them was a renowned "psycho" but turned out to be a lovely pussy cat at heart.

The climb up the first ridge on the Gxalingenwa hike provided this beautiful view of the surrounding lake ...

... and a great baboon sighting, including a very cute youngster.

Up on the plateau, looking down onto the valley.




Here we are at the highest point of the hike.


Descending down into the river valley ...

... to a stunning pool ...

... and an exhilarating but freezing leap into the water!


Hiking along the river ...

... one of the most scenic sections of the hike ...


... with enormous granite boulders.

Overjoyed to be in such a beautiful part of the world with strong feet.

Stopping off at a beautiful waterfall on the walk back to the hostel after a cheeky short cut over a fence. 


So excited to see a Cape Vulture.  

The awesome Sani Pass Backpackers with its peaceful garden ...

... and perfect setting right in the heart of the mountains.

A gorgeous view of the moon from the hostel.

Clicky