Quilotoa Lake (Ecuador)

Text written by Ally

Our travel book describes Quilotoa as a crater lake and does not have much else to say. So neither of us were prepared for just how beautiful it would be. When we arrived, clouds were coming over the sides of the crater making it look moody and dark and very atmospheric indeed.

It was a very steep walk down to the lake down the crater walls but the scenary just grew on us and we sat at times trying to take it all in. The lake water was not very cold but it is this incredible aqua green colour due to the minerals in it - so rich that no fish can live in the water.

We were astonished to discover that the last eruption of the Volcano was in 1797 and this is when the enormous lake was formed - very recent in geography time.

Due to the weather being rather chilly we did not spend long at the bottom. Both of us being lazy and G had a sore back (great excuse) so we decided to hire donkeys to take us back up. After speaking to the local chap and clearing up that it was a "dorro" (donkey) we wanted not a "borro" (bull) - me being dyslexic - the chap said that he would just have to go make a call.

Next thing we know he has his hands capped around his mounth and is shouting at the top of his lungs from the bottom of the crater to the top (at least a kilometer away) for two donkeys to be brought down. That´s what you do when there is no phone! His matter of factness made me double up in laughter. 10 minutes later two donkeys and their owners arrived, having run down the steep sides of the crater.

The saddle was a couple of blankets so the spine of the donkey really gets at one´s backside (which you can still feel two days later). The donkeys are very fit and get you up in 45min, it would have taken us 2hours to walk.

Unless of-course they throw you which happened to G. It gave me such a fright but he landed in sand and he said he was OK - but it did not do his back any good. The donkey having thrown his passenger decided not too stick around and belted up to the top!!! The poor guide had to run up to fetch the poor animal and come down again. He really earned his money.

We decided to stick around that night mainly due to their being no way out until 5 am the next day. We stayed in a family home which had beds in every nook and cranny.

The stars that night were some of the best I have ever seen as there is no light pollution. We all spent time just staring at the sky. It was so dark in bed that night that you couldn´t see your hand in front of your face. This is definately not something I am used to even when we camp.

The bus did not arrive at 5am (well not ever), so we were able to watch the sunrise. Although annoyed that we could not get back we were delighted to see the sunrise right over the Cotopaxi volcano in the far off distance.

We managed to negotiate a ride back to town for $10 with our hostel owner. He wanted $20 intially but we have become good bargainers. As he had paying customers, the wife and friends came along to visit town as well. This was not a problem, but what rather peeved us was when he stopped for half an hour to look at wood. We weren´t to impressed. South America time requires a lot of patience at times!

Here is a photo of the lake

Russel, Graeme wants to know if you think his "Russel leap" is coming on? He is practicing hard as you can see, trying to make it look levitationally effortless. Not quite at your standard yet, but perhaps getting there?

Catching the donkey back up the crater. We felt like lazy colonialists. Note the donkey guider hanging onto the poor beast´s tail to help him up the steep path.

The scenery on the drive back through the mountainous farmlands of Ecuador was also really beautiful.

We also got great views of the famous Cotopaxi Volcanic mountain which increased our motivation to visit the park and see the peak close up.

Cotopaxi Park (Ecuador)

Text written by Ally

We really struggled to get to Cotopaxi Park. We joined 2 Dutch girls at a road where a women said that a truck would be able to take us around the park for $40 but that we had to call the chap and as non of us had cell phones, we asked for the public phone. This being Ecuador's most visited public park, one would have thought they would have a phone but no. Thankfully an engineer working on a project in the park said that he would give us a lift for half the amount so we were thrilled.

After a ride filled with very loud Borjk music (I think it is terrible, G thinks I am ignorant - he is a big fan, I say ignorance is bliss...) we arrived at the lagoon where we planned to camp the night.

Cotopaxi volcano was peaking out of the clouds showing us very red and steep sides with a glacier going all the way around.

We wanted to camp in this spot so that we could get a picture of Cotopaxi reflected in the lagoon. It was not a formal camping spot and I showed my guilty conscience by geting a big fright when G entered the tent as I was getting ready. I thought it was somone coming to tell us off.

But I have to say that our camping spot was so classicly scenic. The lake was spongy so the grass was a rich green with reeds filled with playful ducks. On the fringes frogs were singing their hearts out and the wild horses eating the rich grass.

The cows and bulls were a little disconcerted to see us. After a little stand off where the bulls all lined up to dertermine what kind of threat we would be - they decided to move on. Much to my reflief as being chased by 5 bulls may have prematurely ended our travels.

We did also have a number of nosy sea gulls hovering over us, giving plaintive cries and we worried that they would give us away - but soon the light faded and we had the whole park to ourselves.

This little guy visited our camp site from time to time to make sure we weren´t too lonely...

G woke up early the next morning to capture a classic shot of the Volcano reflected in the lagoon. This is the shot he was hoping for (image source):

Unfortunately, the volcanic peak was so covered in cloud, it could not even be seen:

So he entertained himself with photos of horses in the mist instead... Which I think were just as beautiful.

As we had not organised a lift out we knew we would have to hitch. But after 4km of walking we realised that this must be a circular route as all the cars were going in the opposite direction, so were unlikely to get a lift. We were getting pretty tired under all our stuff.

So with another 15km looming in front of us and our packs getting heavier by the minute we were delighted to come across the museum where we arranged a lift.

While waiting we visited the musuem. I have to say that it was the worst exhibt I have ever seen with faded falling photo´s, moth eaten stuffed birds; deer and damaged models of the volcano. It actually made me feel rather sad as all the potential was there and it made me think that our entrance fee was not really used for the park.

Lima (Peru)

Text written by Ally

The night before we left Pisco we went to a fish resturant and had cold seafood with avocado. It was very tasty but G ended up being really sick on it. So he spent two days in Lima catching up on reading. We did get to see Mission Impossible 3 though which had us glued to our seats.

We stayed in Miraflores section of Lima and it was very pretty. With a park where people sold crafts and art. Some water colours caught our eye, lovely bright Peruvian ladies with bunches of flowers but we decided to think about it. Perhaps they will still be there when we go back in June.

Gold Museum

As G was sick I took myself off to see the gold museum. It was filled with incredible things. What struck me first were the death masks which they created out of a single sheet of gold to place over the mummies heads. No one really knows why.


I was unable to take photos in the museum. All photos in this post were sourced here.

They also created very intricate knives which were probably used in ceramonies.

Before the Spanish arried, the Incas wore large disc earings in the lobes of their ears. They ranged from thin to really thick and heavy ones. All were beautifully worked. Some of the best ones had mosaic patterns and pictures in the center. But just looking at them made my ears ache!!!


On display were some skulls with holes in them. I thought it must have been some surgical practice but was very surprised when I listened to my tape that these were the rewards of war. The winner would lash the skull to their belt as a trophy. It made me very glad that I did not live in those times.

A particluar highlight for me was seeing the ponchos and head dresses. They had a pouncho inlaid with feathers that was 1900 years old. And the feathers still kept their colour. Other ponchos had little platelets of shell or gold leaf decorating them. The head dresses were mainly made from feather fibres allowing them to make the most intricate of patterns like squares and colourful birds. All painstakingly laid, fibre by fibre.



The Inca´s valued shells and feathers far more than gold as gold was easy for them to get. Peru is still the 3rd largest gold exporter in the world. This is why the Spanish were able to "steal" so much gold from the Incas. All in all a very pleasing and informative exhibition that will stay with me for a long time.

Exploring islands on the Peruvian side of Lake Titicaca

Text by Ally

Entering Peru

Our trip crossing the bus border from Bolivia to Peru was a beautiful bus journey mainly along the lake shores where we saw all the subsistence farms and animals. There were no fences and the bus driver had to slow down a couple of times as animals were crossing the road for a juicy bit of grass on the other side.

The customs checks are just outside of Puno and our bus was searched and they found a suspicious box (which of-course belonged to no one). So we were held up for 45 minutes while the bus driver had to talk to the officials. We finally got to Puno and found it to be much more pleasant that all the harsh stories we had heard about it. The main tourist street was bustling with many delicious restaurants and we tucked into a three course meal and drink for $4 each.

We booked a tour to the floating islands and two other islands including a stay with a family on one of the islands.

The Floating Islands

The harbour from where we embarked was thick with with green scum which I would have hated to swim in but it excited G photographically.

Our visit to the floating islands was very interesting. They created this way of living as a way of escaping the attacks of the Inca´s. Now they are besieged each day by hundreds of tourists each day, fascinated by their strange choice of home.

The reed roots (which float) are harvested and form the base of the island. Then layer upon layer of reeds are added to form the top. All the huts are also made from reeds although I noted that they do use plastic under the reed roofs to prevent the rain coming through. I was intrigued when I went into a house. It is only one room, they have electricity from solar panels and a TV (which they were proud of). 7 people stay in one room and all the clothes are hung on pegs. What little books and goods they had were on one shelf.

The locals cook outside (for obvious safety reasons). The main income is from tourists who come and buy their handmade goods. But they do fish and dry them for leaner times. They also have ducks which swim in home made ponds in the middle of their island.

The locals were very friendly and beautifully dressed in traditional costumes.

Russell purveying the scene

For the tourists they have built a big dragon boat out for reeds so we just had to have a ride. Russel even had a go at rowing. We saw a boat crammed with Japanese tourists on a similar boat and they all had their cameras out taking pictures of us. Graeme promptly snapped a shot of them.

G saw an enclosure and it was just filled with guinea pigs. They are the national Peruvian dish. They looked so cute altogether that it was hard to imagine them as a meal. But no doubt Russel and G will give it a try soon.

G spotted this little fellow peaking out of a reed basket. Adorable.

Amantani Island

It was a long boat trip to the first solid land island during which many people felt a bit sea sick. We were greeted at the peer by all the families that were going to host us and they did a dance for us on the shore.


We went and had lunch with our family and met everyone. Then our guide gave us a talk on how they farm and what kind of produce they harvest. It ranges from grains, corn, beans and many different types of potatoes. They dry the potatoes to use during the winter.

And I got to feed a lamb - one of my favourite activities in the world.


G and R went on a sucessful geo-caching hunt which entailed walking up two mountains at over 4000m. They were extremely tried and did quite fancy going to bed but there was still dancing to come. They did the say the sunset was beautiful from the hill though, and the photos back it up.

We got dressed up as the locals do and then we danced a rather vigorous routine to pan flutes and drums. We were totally breathless after one tune!! At about 9:30pm we noticed that our family were just about dead on their feet with tiredness - which was a great excuse for us to say we should actually head off to bed.
Here is Graeme jigging with a young local. As you can see, we had to wear local costumes to the "island disco".



The poor mom we stayed with was breast feeding, had two more kids aged 9 and 10, worked the farm and did all the cooking and then on top of it had to entertain 3 tourists with cooking and dancing. Next time I think I am having a hard time of things, I will remember her.

We really did get to see a slice of life that is so alien to the western ideal. The whole family slept in one room, no electricity, cooking was done on a very smoky hearth and the food was mainly soup, rice and potatoes. The mom was probably my age but looked about 15 years older. But we were met with nothing but warmth, smiles and concern. Staying with the family and playing with the baby was a highlight for me. In fact G made a real hit with the two year old niece as he entertained her with the clips of his trouser leg. I think they really lack stimulation as they have no toys - not even isalnd made ones.


They dress so smartly in hand sewn scarves and blouses. I loved seeing how they hand wove their fabric and their hand knitted hats. It took me back to my fiber art matric subject which I absolutely loved. (I got to do hand weaving, loom weaving, batik and fabric printing). I must look for something arty that I can do in Oz as I do find it so fulfilling.

Taquili Islands

After a heartfelt goodbye to our family at the dock we made our way to the next island. It was the most the beautiful island with flowers around the terraces and everybody said "hola" as we went past. They were also dressed in traditional outfits but they took it much more seriously than the other island - they all wore the outfits appropriate to their station.

G bought a Peruvian hat from the handcrafts shop. We later learnt that on this island it is the men who knit. We saw two boys and they were using 6 very narrow needles to make the traditional hats. So now both G and I have a traditional hat. His by a man and mine by a women.

We walked back to boat down 600 Inca steps and the views were spectacular. I especially liked the arches that were built at strategic places almost to make you stop your decent and look. I would love to have spent the afternoon just relaxing in the sun and taking in the view.

Bus Journey to the Amazon - near death at every corner (Bolivia)

Text by Ally

We got on the bus to continue our journey – our destination the Amazon Basin. Our bus driver was either a frustrated grand prix driver or he had a VERY hot date waiting for him.

We thought we had finished with dangerous roads but being on the bus was scarier than on the bike. On the right were hard granite cliffs which you could have touched with your hand from the window. And on the left was a drop so sheer that you could hardly see the river in the valley below. There are no barriers on the edge and the road is not wide enough for 2 cars let alone buses and trucks. The warning system appeared to be swift blasts on the hooter as the bus went round the corner – at full speed!!!! I just prayed that both vehicles had good brakes. We kept saying that it had to level out sometime but my life did flash before my eyes a few times.

We did have a cute distraction in the form of a very cute and furry puppy. He loved sitting on our laps being stroked. He was also quite at home wondering between people’s feet despite the bumpy road. Our heads nearly hit to roof a few times and our bums certainly left our seats. My wrist was more sore from and hour of gripping the arm rest in sheer terror than it was from 5 hours of cycling down the world’s most dangerous road. But we arrived in the Amazon Basin a fully hour ahead of schedule so our driver must have been able to go on his hot date.

Ally and Russell's trip to the Pampas (Bolivia)

Text by Ally

While Graeme decided to go on a 5 day "get in touch with the jungle tour" Russel and I went on a 3 day pampas tour. It was a long bumpy trip to the river but along the way we got to see a crocodile scampering across the road and a baby sloth high up in a tree.

After a bum numbing 3 hour boat journey, our guide said we could go for a swim. We were not too keen as were in pirhana waters but then we heard the unmistakable sounds of a pink dolphins blowing air. Our guide assured us that dolphins would not be where the pirhanas were so we duly dived in.

Pink dolphins are curious creatures so they bumped Russel on his feet to find out who he was. They would playfully come up for air or slap their tails right by you. It was exciting but also a little scary as the water was dark so you didn´t know where they were. They are unfortunately really hard to photograph as they just come up quickly to breath. We did see one with a stick in its long beak and it was having such fun playing with it from side to side. The bbc website has some good pictures of them . For me this was the highlight of our pampas trip.

The next day it was mission " find anaconda". Booted in Wellingtons, we set off to explore a swamp infested with worms, snails, snail eggs etc in the water. In no time at all my boots had sunk below water level and so it all went in my boot and, being waterproof, not a drop leaked out. To say I was an unhappy camper would have been the understatement of the trip. Everyone else was fine as they don´t have size 4 feet. I tell you, it is feet discrimination that size 4 have a shorter boot!! Then I nearly had a sense of humour failure when the guide admitted to us that we were very unlikely indeed to see an anaconda as it is the rainly season and they could be anywhere in about a 4000km radius (between Peru, Brazil and Boliva).

That afternoon was fun as went went pirhana fishing. We were given a hook in the end of a line with fresh meat and let it dangle in the water. Cleverly they would nibble at the meat so that you constantly had to replace it in the hope of catching something. Russel caught one whose simply could not resist a big chomp but it was just a tiny one. I think that section is a tad overfished. I felt something pull on mine and I just simply don´t have the heart to yank hard to secure the hook. As I brought my line up I saw that there was a turtle at the end of it and I was so glad that I had not hooked it.

We got fed so well and they even made us a cake with "welcome to the pampas" written on it. It went down a real treat. Graeme did not fair so well as his guide told him that he was not hungry so did he not get fed for 24hours. Graeme took it as one of his personal tests of the jungle. I have to admit that as pleased as I was that he survived the Amazon jungle, he smelt so bad (any bergie would have been proud to have been able to create such a smell) that all affectionate hugs were delayed until after a very long hot shower!!

Russel´s mighty catch!

The squirrel monkeys came very close

The Pampas was very social and we had a great group (Mostly Australians, we are picking up contacts galore)

Fruitlessly searching for annacondas in "wellies"

A lovely rainbow