Life Trove

Hattah–Kulkyne National Park, in Victoria’s Mallee country near Mildura, was the last national park I visited on this trip. Its lakes are fed by Chalka Creek, which carries water from the Murray River into the park. Lake Hattah was the centrepiece for me: a beautiful stretch of water fringed by river red gums, with birdlife drawn to the lake amid the dry mallee scrub. Coming upon it felt a little like finding an oasis. I walked right around it and could have stayed by the water for hours.

I camped in the park and loved how quiet and unhurried it felt. I also took the Hattah Nature Drive, which gave me time to explore the lakes and the surrounding bush at my own pace. There was no need to rush from one sight to the next. The lake, the birds, the campground and that beautiful drive added up to a wonderfully restful end to my journey.

Places visited in the park

Hattah Lake

I walked right around Lake Hattah, taking my time to photograph the birds and trees along the shore. As at Kinchega, many of the trees close to the water were dead. I’ve always found dead trees wonderfully photogenic, especially when their bare branches stand in silhouette against the sky. They gave the lake a stark beauty that I kept stopping to photograph.

Sunrise over Hattah Lake

Sunrise down at Hattah Lake was the last of the trip, and it capped off a run of beautiful sunrises and sunsets across the whole journey — here, Mungo, Kinchega, Mutawintji, the Living Desert. It's one of the things I love most about getting away into nature: everything slows down and you actually take it in, basking in that beauty rather than rushing past it. So good for the soul. It reminded me of Umfolozi earlier this year, where our walking guide had us stop, turn our faces to the rising sun, and really feel it — a sublimely spiritual moment. I've taken to doing that consciously ever since, whenever the sun comes up.

Meeting Sonia and listening to her play

On the walk back to camp after watching the sunrise over Hattah Lake, I crossed paths with a lovely young fellow camper, Sonia, guitar in hand. We fell into a delightful conversation about nature and music, and she then offered to play for me. I sat and listened for ages, completely absorbed — it put me in something like an altered state, that mix of beauty and connection right there in the middle of nature, coming so soon after the sublime sunrise. It was one of the spiritual highlights of the whole trip.

Nature drive

The nature drive at Hattah-Kulkyne wound its way around the park's lake system, one quiet, photogenic stop after another. At one of the lakes I crossed paths with a lovely couple, also out photographing birds with big lenses in tow, and we got talking. One of them turned out to be a fellow South African, and we ended up in a beautiful conversation about birds and lenses and everything in between — another lovely connection made along the way on this trip.

Feeling elated and inspired as my trip nears its end

Warepil Lookout

A short climb up to the Warepil Lookout tower, off the Old Calder Highway, rewarded me with sweeping views out over the Mallee scrub — taking in the distinctive Mallee landscape and the impressive lakes system the park is known for.

Birds seen at the park

The birdlife at Hattah-Kulkyne wasn't as prolific as at Kinchega but a joy nevertheless. Cockatoos announced themselves everywhere with their burly personalities and loud, raucous calls, while a scattering of pink galahs added softer colour to the mix. Down at the water, spoonbills swept their heads side to side, probing the shallows with their long bills, and I spotted two beautiful ringed plovers picking their way along the edge. Straw-necked ibis flew across the sky in small formations. Around camp, inquisitive mynahs and apostlebirds grew tame enough to hang about hopefully, clearly hoping for a scrap of food. But the highlight was a magpie at sunrise, calling out its exquisite song and raising its wings to the sky as it sang — utterly sublime. This trip has left me feeling so connected to nature and to these beautiful feathered beings. I love it all so much.