Tanya's Dairy
It’s a beautiful morning when we arrive in South Georgia. The Captain of the Greg Mortimer, Vadym, and the expedition leader, Christian, make a special announcement! We’re going to slowly cruise through the Drygalski Fjord to take in the magnificent sights; the towering rock walls sprinkled with waterfalls, the soaring ice cliffs and the palatial Risting Glacier ahead of us. Drygalski Fjord is 14km long, named after Eric von Drygalski – the leader of the 1901-03 German Antarctic expedition. The mountains on the southern side are basalt and lava originating from underwater volcanic activity, and the other side is the ancient remains of the super continent named Gondwana. This is one of the only places in the world where these two distinct types of rock formation can be found.
Captain Vadym manoeuvres the ship 360 degrees and as we turn, the Upschool team record a lesson on the Ozone layers with environmental scientist Ella. Gavin and Ella talked about the Montreal protocol from 1987 where the whole world worked together to tackle the global problem of climate change, the mountains slowly receding behind us. In a moment of absolute serendipity, as Ella spoke about the threats of climate change, a distant crack sounds, and we capture the moment a glacier calves into the sea.
The afternoon takes us to Cooper Bay and another breathtaking Zodiac cruise! We snag Bia as our Zodiac driver and zoom over to a beautiful enclave surrounded by rocks with streams of bull kelp clinging onto them. Behind us looms some dark and cavernous rock cliffs, which makes the backdrop to our next recording on designing a kelp sanctuary in your school’s library, with Jordan from Young Art USA. We create a lesson on kelp and how it helps us to balance our climate whilst providing a safe haven for the creatures that live in this area. Seaweed stores a lot of carbon dioxide from the atmosphere, hence curbing climate change, and also provides a sanctuary for seal pups to hide from leopard seals.
Bia takes us around the bay of rocks filled with four types of penguins; Macaroni, Gentoo, Chinstrap and King. As we round the corner, we all gasp in awe – swimming, playing and dancing in the bay beside us are hundreds of young fur seals, cautious yet curious about us as we slowly approach. It is an indescribable feeling as we coast by quietly, careful not to disturb the serenity of the moment. Time stands still as we watch them twirl and spiral through the water. Further along on the shoreline, we see Macaroni penguins, more fur seals, and giant Petrels. We record a lesson with Bia on Macaroni penguins and how they hunt, breed and feed.
My Account
Morning ship cruise along Drygalski Fjord
As we journeyed up the Drygalski Fjord towards the Risting Glacier, we were immersed in a mesmerizing landscape of ice formations and towering cliffs. The dramatic meeting of sea and ice unfolded before us, with the fjord's pristine waters reflecting the captivating blues and whites of the glaciers. South Georgia Island's rugged coast provided a breathtaking backdrop, and we marveled at the snow-covered peaks rising majestically in the distance.
Wildlife encounters enriched our experience. We spotted seals resting on ice floes and various bird species soared overhead. Finally, upon reaching the Risting Glacier, we stood in awe of its massive ice wall, a testament to the power of nature.
At the mouth of the fjord
Half way along the fjord
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| Marcus and Tania, 2 amazing photographers |
The Risting Glacier at the end of the fjord
Doing lessons
Afternoon Zodiac cruise at Cooper Bay
Cooper Bay provided a Jurassic Park like experience with so much wildlife at close quarters that it filled us with wonder and awe. Macaroni penguins, King penguins, Chinstrap penguins, Fur seals, petrels, pipits, pintails, elephant seals, a leopard seal. An experience none of us will ever forget.
South Georgia is much greener than Antarctica
Macaroni penguins
I was so excited to see my first Macaroni penguins, the 4th species of penguin we encountered on our expedition. They are such weird looking creatures with their distinctive "hairdo."
Here are some interesting facts about these quirky birds:
- Macaroni penguins have a striking yellow-orange crest that extends from their forehead to the back of their heads. This crest, which resembles a hairdo, is made up of long, thin feathers and is responsible for their name. They were named after 18th-century English dandies called "macaronis" who wore elaborate wigs and fashionable clothing.
- Macaroni penguins can be found in the sub-Antarctic and Antarctic Peninsula regions, with large breeding colonies on islands such as South Georgia, Crozet, Kerguelen, and Heard Island.
- They are one of the most abundant penguin species, with an estimated population of around 9 million breeding pairs. However, they have experienced population declines in recent years due to factors such as climate change, overfishing, and habitat disturbance.
- Macaroni penguins primarily feed on krill, small shrimp-like crustaceans, but they also consume fish and squid when available. They are known to dive up to 100 meters in search of food.
- These penguins are monogamous and return to the same breeding site year after year. They build their nests on rocky slopes or cliffs using pebbles, grass, and mud. Macaroni penguins usually lay two eggs, but only the second, larger egg is typically successful in hatching and being raised to fledging.
- Macaroni penguins are well-adapted for life in cold environments. They have a layer of blubber for insulation, tightly packed feathers for waterproofing, and specialized nasal glands that help them excrete excess salt from their bodies after consuming seawater.
- They are strong swimmers, capable of reaching speeds of up to 24 kilometers (15 miles) per hour, and can travel long distances in search of food during the breeding season.
Chinstrap penguins
I loved my first encounter with Chinstrap penguins at
Hydrurga Rocks in the Antarctic Peninsula so I was delighted to unexpectedly see them again. Just a few individuals nestling on rocks on the shore, two venturing down to the water's edge for a swim.
Fur seals
Antarctic Fur seals are abundant in South Georgia and have some captivating features. Here are a few fascinating facts about these marine mammals:
- Antarctic fur seals were hunted to near extinction in the 18th and 19th centuries due to their prized fur. However, since the implementation of conservation measures, their population has rebounded significantly. Today, South Georgia is home to approximately 95% of the global population of Antarctic fur seals.
- Fur seals display marked sexual dimorphism, meaning males and females have different physical characteristics. Males are significantly larger than females, with males weighing up to 200 kilograms (440 pounds) and females weighing around 40 kilograms (88 pounds).
- The breeding season for Antarctic fur seals in South Georgia typically starts in November and lasts until January. During this time, male fur seals establish territories on the beaches and compete with each other for access to females.
- Male Antarctic fur seals are polygynous, meaning they mate with multiple females during the breeding season. A dominant male, or "beachmaster," can have a harem of up to 20 or more females.
- Female fur seals give birth to a single pup and nurse it for about four months. The mother alternates between foraging trips at sea and nursing her pup on land. Pups learn to swim at an early age and become independent after weaning.
- Antarctic fur seals primarily feed on krill, but they also consume fish and squid when available. They are known to dive to depths of up to 200 meters (656 feet) in search of food.
- Fur seals have natural predators such as orcas and leopard seals, which may prey on them while they are in the water. On land, fur seal pups are occasionally targeted by birds of prey like skuas.
- Fur seals belong to the family Otariidae, which are known as eared seals. This distinguishes them from true seals, which lack external ear flaps. Eared seals have visible ear flaps and are more agile on land due to their ability to rotate their hind flippers forward.
Elephant seal
A male elephant seal deliberately waded out towards us, giving us a menacing glare as a warning. Its intentional display reminded us to respect its territory and maintain a safe distance from these powerful animals. You don't want to mess with such an enormous beast!
Leopard seal swim under the zodiac
Another leopard seal curious to see what strange floating beast was brave enough to invade its territory.
My first sighting of King Penguins
I felt a surge of excitement at my first encounter with king penguins. Their regal appearance and unique markings were even more impressive in person. The sight of these magnificent birds waddling along the beach and interacting with each other in their natural habitat was unforgettable.
Giant Petrels float on the ocean surface, close to the zodiac
From the zodiac, we had amazingly close encounters with Giant Petrels floating about in the ocean. They were completely fearless!
Southern Giant petrels are large seabirds found in the Southern Ocean, including around South Georgia. Here are some fascinating facts about these impressive birds:
- Giant petrels are among the largest seabirds in the Southern Ocean, with wingspans reaching up to 200-210 centimeters. They can weigh up to 5 kilograms.
- Like other members of their order, giant petrels have a unique nasal structure called "tubenose." These tube-like nostrils on top of their beaks aid in excreting excess salt and help the birds detect food by their enhanced sense of smell.
- Giant petrels are opportunistic feeders and known as the "vultures of the Southern Ocean." They scavenge carcasses of seals, penguins, and other seabirds, but also prey on live animals like fish, squid, and krill. They can even hunt down smaller seabirds or take unguarded penguin chicks.
- Giant petrels are known for their aggressive behavior, especially during feeding. They can fiercely defend food sources and use their strong beaks to fend off other birds.
- Both species of giant petrels breed on South Georgia, with the northern giant petrel having a larger breeding population on the island. They nest in colonies, often in close proximity to other seabirds. Females lay a single egg, and both parents share incubation duties for about 60 days.
- Giant petrels are known to be long-lived, with some individuals reaching over 30 years of age. They have a delayed maturity, typically starting to breed between the ages of 6 and 10.
- After the breeding season, giant petrels disperse widely across the Southern Ocean. They can cover vast distances, with some individuals traveling thousands of kilometers away from their breeding grounds.
- In both species of giant petrels, males are generally larger than females and have a more massive beak. Additionally, the southern giant petrel displays color dimorphism, with some individuals being almost entirely white while others have darker plumage.
Sheathbills cling to vegetation of the shore
Snowy sheathbills are a distinctive species of birds found on South Georgia Island. With their all-white plumage, plump bodies, and thick red bills, they stand out among the island's other native birds. Sheathbills are opportunistic scavengers, with a diet that includes a wide range of food sources such as krill, fish, invertebrates, and carrion. Interestingly, they are also known to steal food directly from other seabirds, including penguins, and consume their eggs and chicks, showcasing their adaptability in the sub-Antarctic environment.
A South Georgia pipit struts its stuff on shore
The South Georgia pipit is a small passerine bird and the southernmost songbird in the world. Endemic to South Georgia Island, it boasts a unique melodic song that brightens the sub-Antarctic landscape. The species faced threats from invasive rats, which preyed on their eggs and chicks, but successful eradication efforts have led to a resurgence in their population. Remarkably adaptable, these resilient birds can be found in a variety of habitats, from coastal tussock grasslands to mountainous regions, foraging for insects and other small invertebrates.
A South Georgia pintail comes close to zodiac
The South Georgia pintail is a subspecies of the yellow-billed pintail, native to the South Georgia Island. This striking duck features a dark brown head, a yellow-tipped bill, and a long, pointed tail that distinguishes it from other ducks. As an opportunistic feeder, the South Georgia pintail consumes a varied diet consisting of aquatic plants, invertebrates, and even carrion. Its ability to thrive in the harsh sub-Antarctic environment demonstrates the remarkable adaptability of this unique bird.
Skuas purvey the land for opportunities
