Life Trove: icebergs

Tanya's Diary

Unbelievably, it’s only day four of our Antarctic Adventure, though it feels like we’ve experienced a lifetime of wonder already! It’s another beautiful morning and today there are some amazing things planned for us by the Aurora Expeditions team on board. First up, though, is a delicious buffet breakfast, bright and early at 8am.

The ship, Greg Mortimer, named after the first Australian to climb Mount Everest without the use of oxygen tanks, cruised down the Gerlache Strait and we got to see even more whales! Humpback whales slowly cruised by and surfaced as we watched from above – it was a sight to behold.

Yesterday afternoon, before dinner, we had the honour and privilege of being able to interview Dr Karl Kruszelnicki for the first of a series of ten educational videos about ‘Space from the Edge of the World’. It was a short and sweet intro to the solar system and we were all in awe as we listened to him speak on the topic.

As the days go by, we’ll be taking every opportunity to pick his brain on topics as far and wide as the universe and beyond – his knowledge seems to know no bounds and we appreciate every minute we spend with him.

After brekky on the 14th, we got to do our first landing! It was a place called Cuverville Island and we saw our first colony of penguins!! I’d been planning on doing a penguin count for this trip but there were so many! Matt has jokingly estimated that there were 749 penguins there, and Gavin, ever the teacher, informs us that it is the largest Gentoo penguin colony on Earth.

The landing and surrounds were the perfect location for getting the next few educational video recordings. We found a cute group of penguins and set up in front of them, at a respectable distance for Gavin to deliver a lesson on the Gentoo penguin’s first journey into the ocean.

In a different spot, we set up again for Jordan, our art curriculum writer cohort from Young Art USA, to deliver a lesson on depth perception – with penguins in the foreground and background.

The afternoon took us cruising through the Errera Channel, filled with even more whales surfing the waters alongside us. We are almost at the point where the whale count is going to be countless, too! We were treated to a Zodiac cruise around Paradise Harbour, anchoring near the Argentinian Antarctic Base Brown. We spotted even more whales, penguins swimming through the waters from island to island, cormorants nesting on cliff faces, and some very cool – in more ways than one – glaciers and icebergs.

What a day!! With so much that we’ve already seen, we can hardly believe it’s only still early days! What else is there?! Let’s see what tomorrow brings …

My Account

Early morning view from the ship

What a wonderful view to start the morning on the day of our first landing in Antarctica.

Morning landing on Cuverville Island

Cuverville Island covers an area of approximately 5 square kilometers and is characterized by rocky terrain and steep cliffs. It is often covered in snow and ice due to the harsh Antarctic climate. The island is a vital breeding ground for Gentoo penguins, boasting one of the largest colonies in the Antarctic Peninsula region with over 6500 breeding pairs. What an amazing place for our very first landing.

Excited to be on our very first expedition

Putting on our boots and life-jacket in the mudroom and then embarking onto the zodiacs after being scanned. A familiar process because of our Arctic experience, but that didn't stop us from feeling full of excitement and anticipation.

Shags flying past our zodiac as we journey to the beach

Antarctic shags are a species of cormorant found in the Antarctic Peninsula and nearby islands. They are characterized by their blue eyes, blue-black plumage, and a distinctive white patch on their cheeks. These seabirds are skilled divers and feed mainly on fish, which they catch by pursuing their prey underwater.

Landing on the beach

Our first experience of Gentoo Penguins

It is hard to describe our first experience of being surrounded by so many penguins, fearless of humans and wonderfully curious, coming up to say hi. Totally wondrous and mesmerising.

We were supposed to stay a minimum of 5 metres from all wildlife in Antarctic but we would soon realise in many cases, this was a distinct challenge unless you constantly backed away!

Gentoo penguins are a fascinating species of penguins native to the Antarctic Peninsula and its surrounding islands. Here are some fascinating facts about these captivating birds:

Gentoo penguins are known to be the fastest swimming penguins, reaching speeds of up to 36 km/h. They are strong divers, capable of diving up to 200 meters in search of food.
Gentoos can be identified by their bright orange-red bills, white patches above their eyes, and a white stripe extending across the top of their heads. Their body is mostly black with a white belly, and they have long, paddle-like flippers.
Gentoo penguins primarily feed on krill, but they also consume fish and squid. They are efficient hunters and can catch a variety of prey in the water, relying on their speed and agility.
Unlike other penguin species, Gentoos build nests using small stones and pebbles. The nests are built in circular shapes and provide a safe space for the penguins to lay their eggs. Both the male and female take turns incubating the eggs.
Gentoo penguins are monogamous and often return to the same breeding site year after year. The breeding season usually starts in October, and they typically lay two eggs. Both parents share the responsibility of incubating the eggs and caring for the chicks.
Gentoos are known for their loud and distinctive vocalizations, which they use to communicate with each other. Their calls include trumpeting sounds, croaking noises, and other complex vocal patterns that help them identify their mates and locate their chicks.
The main predators of Gentoo penguins are leopard seals, orcas, and various seabirds, such as skuas and kelp gulls, which prey on their eggs and chicks. To avoid predation, Gentoos are agile in the water and often nest in areas with good visibility to spot potential threats.

A large colony of Gentoo Penguins in a vast landscape.

Gentoos get into all sorts of contorted shapes!

"Hey guys, I only stopped for a little poo!"

Slow on land, agile in the water

A wonder world of ice

I loved the shapes of the ice on the pebbled beach

A solitary Antarctic tern flies by

Antarctic Terns are small, agile seabirds found throughout the Antarctic and sub-Antarctic regions. They are known for their exceptional diving and flying abilities, which enable them to catch fish and small invertebrates. These terns breed in large colonies during the austral summer, constructing nests on rocky shores or cliffs and displaying strong territorial behavior to protect their eggs and chicks.

Going for a walk up the slope

Exhilarated to be in such an extraordinary place

Doing video lessons on the beach

View of the ship on the way home

Afternoon Zodiac cruise at Paradise Harbour

Paradise Harbour, also known as Paradise Bay, is a stunning and picturesque location on the Antarctic Peninsula. Surrounded by towering glaciers, icebergs, and snow-covered mountains, it is a popular destination for both research expeditions and Antarctic cruise ships. The harbour is home to various Antarctic wildlife, including penguins, seals, and whales, which can often be observed in the pristine waters or along the shoreline.

Excited to be on our first zodiac cruise

Beautiful icebergs

The main attractor for me on the zodiac cruise was the beautiful, sculptured icebergs. Nature really can be the ultimate artist.

As if crafted by an artist.

We pass an Argentinian base called "Brown Station" on shore

Brown Station is an Argentine Antarctic research base located on the Antarctic Peninsula's Paradise Harbor. Established in 1951, this station focuses on various scientific research activities, including glaciology, meteorology, and marine biology, contributing significantly to our understanding of the Antarctic region.

In 1984, Brown Station suffered a devastating fire, which was allegedly set by the base's doctor in an attempt to avoid spending the winter there. The incident led to the destruction of the main building, and since then, the station has been partially rebuilt and operates on a seasonal basis, primarily during the Antarctic summer.

A beautiful rock on the shore ...

... where Antarctic shags perch and nest

A Humpback Whale close to the zodiac!

Gentoo Penguins porpoise through through the water

Gentoo penguins are known for their remarkable swimming skills, including their ability to porpoise through the water at impressive speeds. Porpoising is a behavior where the penguin propels itself in and out of the water in a series of leaps, allowing it to maintain high speeds while breathing. This swift, energy-efficient movement enables Gentoo penguins to evade predators, cover long distances in search of food, and reduce drag while traveling through the water. I was lucky to get some great shots of porpoising. I'm so in love with my camera's amazing autofocus.