Day 1 of Everest hike: Lukla (2860m) to Phakding (2610m)

Early morning flight from Kathmandu (1400 m) to Lukla airport (2860 m)

Lukla Airport is often considered one of the most dangerous airports in the world due to its challenging location. It's a short, sloping runway situated on a steep mountainside in the Himalayas, making landings and take-offs particularly tricky. The airport's unpredictable weather conditions, frequent fog, and short runway add to the risks. Pilots require specialized training and experience to navigate these challenges safely. Despite its reputation, Lukla Airport remains a crucial entry point for trekkers and climbers heading to the Everest region, as it significantly shortens the journey compared to traveling by road.

At the airport, nervous but excited

On the bus on the way to the plane. The tension builds!

And we are off in a very small plane indeed

Stunning scenery on the flight settles our nerves a bit

Our first sighting of vast peaks

And we land safely!  What a wonderful relief !!

So thrilled to be alive !

A statue at the airport of Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay

Breakfast in Lukla

Lukla, a small town in the Khumbu region, serves as the starting point for the Everest Base Camp trek. It's normally a busy place with lots of trekkers, porters, and locals but was relatively quiet for us, being so early in the season. The town features a plethora of teahouses and shops for trekking gear in the town. We stopped at a tea house for a hearty breakfast to help power us on our way. Still on a high after our near death experience.

Our fist sighting of prayer flags

Setting off on our hike

And so we were off.! The trek from Lukla to Phakding is a relatively easy start to the Everest Base Camp journey. The trail follows the Dudh Koshi River, passing through several small villages and crossing suspension bridges along the way. It's a gradual downhill walk, making it a good warm-up for the more demanding sections of the trek to come. The scenery includes lush green hillsides and glimpses of snow-capped peaks in the distance. 

Mathbar, our wonderful and friendly guide

Porters carrying massive weights

Porters in the Everest region carry heavy loads of produce using a strap on their foreheads and necks. This physically demanding job involves navigating steep terrain and high altitudes to deliver essential food supplies to remote mountain villages, sustaining the supply chain in a challenging environment. Their strength and resilience are essential for ensuring access to food in the Himalayas.

Meeting friendly dogs and cats on the way

We encountered many friendly dogs along the way. The Nepalese treat their dogs well and they all looked healthy and well fed. These dogs would often joins us on parts of our journey, offering companionship and a comforting presence, particularly during tough sections of the trail. Their presence reminded me constantly of dear Mackie but in a happy way. 

A couple of cute kitties too

Meeting horses and dzos

We often encountered dzos, which are hybrid animals bred from yaks and domestic cattle. These hardy creatures play a crucial role in carrying heavy loads of supplies and equipment along the challenging mountain trails. Their strong and resilient nature makes them well-suited for the harsh terrain and high altitudes of the Himalayas.

Stupors

We encountered many traditional stupas along the way. These religious monuments, often adorned with prayer flags and art work, were prominent features of the landscape and reflect the deep Buddhist culture in the Khumbu region. It is customary to pass these stupas on the left as a sign of respect for the local Sherpa traditions, which involve clockwise circumambulation for positive karma. These serene structures are a special reminder of the spiritual connection between nature and humanity in the Himalayas.

Prayer flags

Prayer flags are a common sight on the Everest Base Camp hike. These colorful rectangular pieces of cloth, often strung along ridges and passes, serve as religious and cultural symbols in the region. They bear inscriptions of prayers and mantras, which are believed to be carried by the wind to spread blessings and positive energy to the surrounding area. They are very photogenic, especially when there are mountains behind them, so they often had me in photographic raptures.

Prayer wheels

Prayer wheels are cylindrical devices found throughout the Everest region, often placed near monasteries and along trekking routes. Inscribed with Buddhist mantras and prayers, they are spun clockwise by passersby. The belief is that each rotation sends the prayers and mantras heavenward, bestowing blessings and merit. This practice is an integral part of the local Buddhist culture, and the rhythmic turning of prayer wheels adds a wonderful sense of spirituality to the trekking experience, creating a connection between trekkers and the age-old traditions of the Himalayas.

Prayer rocks

Inscribed prayer rocks are a common sight along the trails in the Everest region. These rocks, often found near pathways and riverbanks, are adorned with carved Buddhist mantras and prayers. Locals often touch the rocks, believing that doing so will send their prayers and intentions out into the universe. 

Villages along the way

During our first day hike, we passed through a series of settlements that offered a glimpse into the local way of life. These villages are nestled amid the lush hillsides of the Khumbu region. They typically feature rustic lodges, teahouses, and small shops catering to trekkers' needs. We had our first encounter of the warm hospitality of the Sherpa people, who are known for their friendliness and warm smiles. The picturesque scenery, with traditional stone houses and prayer flags fluttering in the breeze, provided some wonderful photographic opportunities.

Our first experience of suspension bridges

The Everest Base Camp trek features several suspension bridges that can be both thrilling and nerve-wracking to cross. These narrow and swaying bridges span deep gorges and rushing rivers, connecting hikers between sections of the trail. While they offer breathtaking views of the landscape, the experience of walking across them was initially rather intimidating, especially due to my fear of heights. However, the bridges are well-constructed and safe, and I soon got used to them. They added an adventurous element to the trek and were an unforgettable part of the journey.

Arriving in Phakding (2804m)

Phakding, situated at a lower elevation than Lukla, provides a comfortable first-night stop for trekkers. Our hotel was very comfy and surprisingly luxurious with hot water showers, wifi and free electricity for charging our phones. We were warned that hotels at higher altitudes would become increasingly basic and to enjoy the creature comforts while they lasted.

Phakding even had an Irish bar with a pool table, much to Rajesh's delight !