Life Trove: Day 8 - 10: Passing Elephant Island and crossing the Scotia Sea

Tanya's Diary

We had an interesting day on the 18th, with the weather deciding most of the day’s activities! The initial plan was to go ashore at Penguin Island, the giant stratovolcano that looms above the surface of the ocean. This volcano was estimated to be last active about 300 years ago. On the east side of the island is ‘Petrel Crater’, estimated to have erupted in or around 1905. Unfortunately, due to the weather conditions – large swells and winds up to 48 knots – we weren’t able to get close enough while maintaining safety for all involved. A heavy mist was rolling in as well, affecting our viewing abilities.

So instead, we decided to take care of the South Georgia biosecurity requirements. These are in place to ensure the safety of the flora and fauna in South Georgia, to protect the ecosystem of the area, and for other general biosecurity reasons. To ensure we are compliant with the protocols, we spend the morning carefully checking our exterior clothing, our gloves, our hiking gear, and anything that would be touching the South Georgian ground. In the lead up to our first landing at South Georgia, in a few days, we will continue to have the occasional biosecurity parties, as we’ve been calling them, to ensure we meet the strict requirements of the area.

We spend the afternoon attending some interesting lectures – Bia speaks on the life of a humpback whale with a talk titled ‘From tropics to ice and back again, and Jeff gives us a history of polar exploration and ‘Shackleton’s Endurance’. As the ship cruises past Elephant Island, we are lucky enough to have a brief window of sun shine down around us – the sky clears up just enough for us to catch a sight of Elephant Island.

We head east across the Scotia Sea and as we travel, fin whales cruise alongside us, seemingly guiding us onwards, in what can only be described as a magical experience. We say our goodbyes to Antarctica and look ahead towards South Georgia.

The 19th and 20th of March were spent crossing the Scotia Sea and as such we made use of our time on board to listen to lectures and record educational content for Upschool. Jeff delivered a lecture on Otto van Nordenskjold’s Swedish Antarctic expedition, Pat delivered one on Antarctic weather, the cyclonic storms of the area and how the weather in the Antarctic region influences the climate of the whole planet. The Upschool team met up with Pat, the marine biologist, to discuss recording the video on wild weather as they anticipated a large storm heading into the Scotia Sea on the 20th March.

The morning of the 20th March took us further across the Scotia Sea towards South Georgia. We enjoy another day of fascinating history and knowledge with a lecture about the seals of the Southern Ocean by Hannah, our naturalist and wildlife specialist on board, and one on whaling and its effects by Bia, a marine biologist. The afternoon brought on the snow storms we were hoping for and we quickly utilised the weather to create the educational lesson with Pat.

As the seas calmed and the winds settled, it was time to get ready for South Georgia and the beauty that we would behold.

My Account

Passing Elephant Island

Elephant Island is is where Shackleton's crew were stranded for several months while he and few others navigated in a tiny vessel to South Georgia to get help during their ill fated 1914 - 1917 expedition to Antarctica. I was struck by how barren, stark and icy it looked. Not the kind of place you'd choose to stay for a long stay unless you really had to!

Wandering albatross off the ship

It was truly wonderful to see the wandering albatrosses glide gracefully close to our ship in the Scotia Sea. These magnificent birds are the epitome of beauty and endurance and are the undisputed masters of The Southern Ocean.

Here are some fascinating facts about wandering albatrosses that make them even more awe-inspiring:

Wandering albatrosses have the largest wingspan of any bird in the world, which can reach up to 3.5 meters. This allows them to soar effortlessly over vast ocean expanses with minimal energy expenditure.
These birds are known for their extraordinary long-distance flights. They can travel thousands of miles across oceans without needing to land, and are known to circumnavigate the Southern Ocean three times in a single year, covering over 120,000 kilometers.
Wandering albatrosses have an impressively long lifespan for a bird, with some individuals living over 50 years. They mate for life and typically lay one egg every other year, taking turns to incubate it and protect it from predators.
Wandering albatrosses feed on squid, fish, and other marine life. They are known to dive as deep as 5 meters to catch prey, and they can even snatch food from the water's surface while in flight.
Wandering albatrosses have a complex and intriguing courtship display that includes a variety of vocalizations, bill-clapping, and synchronized movements. These displays help to strengthen the bond between mates and can last for several hours.
Unfortunately, wandering albatrosses are currently listed as vulnerable by the IUCN Red List, mainly due to threats from longline fishing and plastic pollution. Conservation efforts are underway to help protect these amazing birds and their habitats.

Grey headed albatross

I was thrilled to see the grey-headed albatross for the first time. This species is known for its stunning appearance, with a distinctive grey head, black bill, and a white body with contrasting dark wings. The sight of these beautiful birds in their natural environment was truly mesmerizing.

Here are some interesting facts about grey-headed albatrosses:

Grey-headed albatrosses breed on remote subantarctic islands, such as South Georgia, Kerguelen, and Crozet Islands. They build their nests on steep, tussock-covered slopes to protect their eggs and chicks from predators.
These albatrosses primarily feed on squid, fish, and krill. They are known to travel vast distances in search of food, sometimes covering more than10,000 kilometers in a single foraging trip.
Like other albatross species, grey-headed albatrosses are excellent long-distance fliers. They utilize dynamic soaring techniques to conserve energy and can travel at speeds of up to 68 miles (110 kilometers) per hour.
Grey-headed albatrosses form long-term monogamous pairs and share the responsibilities of incubating their single egg and raising their chick. The birds return to the same nesting site each breeding season, which occurs every two years.
Grey-headed albatrosses reach sexual maturity at around ten years of age. Once they reach maturity, they begin their search for a mate and establish their own breeding territory.
The grey-headed albatross is also classified as endangered on the IUCN Red List. The primary threats to this species include longline fishing, climate change, and habitat degradation. Conservation efforts are ongoing to protect these beautiful birds and their habitats.

Sooty albatross

Another new species for me, the Sooty albatross is a medium-sized albatross species that primarily inhabits the sub-Antarctic and cool temperate regions of the Southern Hemisphere. Distinguished by its dark, sooty-brown plumage and a wingspan that can reach up to 2 meters, this seabird is well-adapted for long-distance flight. The sooty albatross feeds primarily on squid, fish, and krill, using its sharp beak to snatch prey from the ocean surface. It breeds on remote islands, constructing nests on steep cliffs and slopes to avoid predation. With a low reproductive rate and long-lived life expectancy of up to 40 years, sooty albatross populations are vulnerable to threats such as longline fishing, climate change, and habitat degradation.