Getting to Bolivia (Ally)

After our tour we had to take a good look at what region we were headed next. On our previous planning, we did not take into account the vast distances in Brazil and realised if we went down the Amazon (it would take 3 weeks on the boat) we could not get back to Lima in time for Russel to catch his flight back to Cape Town. So we decided to go to Bolivia instead. We checked visa status and it was fine for Russell.

The worlds biggest salt pans in the far west of Bolivia was our destination and after three plane trips, 2 bus journeys and 1 train ride we arrived. Although our journey was long and arduous, we did have some adventure.

• While waiting for the bus to get the airport in Rio, Graeme and Russel were watching a group of bikini clad girls play volleyball. It was a toss up whether they would actually catch the bus.
• Flying out of Rio airport was spectacular as we got to see Sugar Loaf and Copacabana beach from the air as the sun was setting.
• At Sao Paulo airport we had our picnic outside in the taxi rank and we received very strange looks but they were nothing compared to the looks we received when we slept on the airport floor waiting for our flight. Might also have had something to do with Graeme´s choice of a sitting place. Wally!
• Arriving in Santa Cruz (Bolivia) we duly went through immigration only to be told that South Africans need a special visa to enter. So we all sat aside until everyone went through and then had to try to communicate in our haphazard Spanish that we had checked the internet and the airline had allowed us through. After a little discussion the chap said that we could buy one there for $40. We were suspicious when he put the $40 in his pocket and it was confirmed in our book that the rules change all the time depending on which point you are crossing the border and who you are dealing with. So one Santa Cruz agent is $40 richer!

• We had arrived at 1.30am and it was not safe to go straight through to the bus station so we found ourselves some very comfy seats in the airport to sleep. We were by no means the only people – the only thing is that they insisted on cleaning the floors all night so not much sleep was had.
• Our first bus trip in Bolivia was completely different to any others we have had so far in South America. There was manual air conditioning (i.e. open window policy) and the toilet was padlocked. We stocked up on food before we boarded but we needn’t have bothered as people kept coming in selling everything from fried chicken to newspapers. And the bus stopped every hour so the people could eat again. Needless to say the people here considerably larger than in Brazil or Argentina.
• The buses did have TV’s but they were last used in the 80’s so instead we had the traveling salesman soliloquy. They would stand in the bus and extol the virtues of their miracle cream (curing every aliment under the sun from itchy bites to cancer and burns) for about 45min in Spanish. I could not believe the tolerance of the locals. By the third person I could gleefully have taped their mouths shut but I don’t think that would have done much for foreigner vs local relations.
• A day was spent in Oruro where we got to eat in the best restaurant in town which was delicious. We also walked around the market where you could buy anything from a 50 litre cooking pot to lacey orange underwear. At the market we also saw a few medicine stalls with ingredients which I would imagine would be rather like a songoma would use. I have to admit that the dried calf fetuses did offend my western sensibilities but I guess one of the reasons why we travel is to see how others live and keep an open mind.

• On our train trip we were treated to an 80’s pop show but all the songs were dubbed into Spanish (including songs from Grease) which provided much entertainment for all the backpackers.