Turkey (1997)

Gallipoli, Istanbul, Cappadocia, Nemrut Mountain, Sanliurfa, Kizkalisi, Anamur, Olympus Tree Houses, Oludeniz, Butterfly Valley, Fetiye, Yacht Cruise

Post cards, letters and photos from my 6 weeks backpacking in Turkey with Ally from 16 September – 27 October 1997.

Places visited

What we experienced

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Photos from the trip

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From Post Cards

Gallipoli

• After a mammoth 17 hour wait at Thesalonika bus station, we caught a bus across the border to Cannakale – in Turkey at last! We used this town as a base to explore Gallipoli where 1,000’s of English, New Zealanders, Australian and Turks died in the 1st World War. This battlefield was made famous by the movie “Gallipoli” with Mel Gibson. Spent hours perusing the graveyards and original trenches. A sad, moving experience. I was the only “foreigner” amongst dozens of Australian and New Zealand “pilgrims”. Gallipoli is very special to them – this somehow made it all the more special.

Istanbul

• Istanbul is a tale of two continents – spanning both Europe and Asia. The bottom left photo partly shows the famous bridge connecting the two. A wonderfully vibrant and exotic city. We walked for days along its streets – exploring bazaars, mosques, palaces and restaurants. The food in Turkey is irresistible – no wonder Turkish food is called the French cuisine of the East. Sizzling kebabs, mouth watering eggplant delicacies, fresh, hot bread – not to mention Turkish delight and sinful pastries. I’m very fast putting on any weight I lost in Egypt!

Topkaki Palace

• Topkapi Palace:  Wow – what a Palace – especially the treasury where all the treasures of the Sultans of old are kept. Never seen such obscene wealth concentrated in one room in all my life. Jewel encrusted daggers, fish sized emeralds, sparkling diamonds, tea sets, and 2 metre high solid gold candlesticks – to name but some of the items. Rather macabre was the “Relic Room” where little bits of the prophet Mohammed are kept in gold chests – like his beard hairs, some toe nail clippings and a single tooth.

Blue Mosque

• Istanbul’s most beautiful mosque – the Blue Mosque – it is a very impressive sight indeed. Its towers reach for the sky and its enormous dome is hand painted with exquisite blue mosaics. Last night I met Ally at the airport – it’s wonderful to see her again. She has been instantly accepted into our travelling family (Kate, Russell and me). The Blue Mosque is the first Mosque Ally has explored inside – a very special experience for her.

Cappadocia

• From Instanbul we made an epic night journey east to Cappadocia – one of Turkey’s most extraordinary tourist attractions. A Volcano spewed soft “tufa” over the land millions of years ago and the wind and rain have been sculpturing the landscape into wondrous shapes every since. Then +/- 1800 years ago, early Christians arrived here to escape persecution and carved countless caves, houses and churches in the soft rock of the valleys. The result is a wonderland of sights to explore.

Cappadocia (cont.)

• Needless to say, nature can be a very naughty artist when she wants to be. The valley that contains these amazing “fairy chimneys” is euphorically known as “Love Valley”. Many of the valleys in Cappadocia are blissfully secluded so when you hike, you feel as though you have the whole place to yourself.
• Some more weird and wonderful landscaping. The valleys were all dotted with orchards – so whenever we felt hungry on our hikes, we stopped to pick apples, grapes, walnuts (yummy!), beans, pears, tomatoes and peppers. A veritable Garden of Eden. Some of the climbing in the man made caves was challenging – staircases often consisted of a very narrow, vertical tunnel with holes in the wall to use as footholds. Ally handled herself like a pro. We also explored parts of the vast underground cities, deep below the ground that the Christians dug to provide escape hatches when threatened.

Goreme

• Goreme is the town where we stayed in Cappadocia. As you can see, many of the houses are built right into the rock. The hotel where we stayed provided us with caves to sleep in and even the pubs in town were dug into the cliffs. Certainly an unforgettable place. Tomorrow Ally and I say goodbye to Kate and Russell as they have less time in Turkey than us. Sad – after two weeks, we’ve become really close. From now on I’ll always have a place to stay in Auckland and Hollywood – Kate’s father is a famous creative movie director!

Malatya

• From Cappadocia we headed east to a town called Malatya. East Turkey is off the beaten track – we’ve hardly seen any tourists while we’ve been here – bliss! You wouldn’t believe how cheap it is here compared to the west – a delicious restaurant meal for R10 and T-shirt for R5 at the bazaars. We are using Malatya as a base to explore the Nemrut Mountain – over 2,000m high with an ancient temple on its summit.

Nemrut Dagi

• After a long and bumpy ride winding along pot-holed roads, we emerged at the summit of Nemrut. Unfortunately, thick mist obscured the view of the world below but the temple (consisting of dilapidated statues and a 50 metre high man made hill) was awesome. The mist really added to the eerie atmosphere created by massive heads lying on the ground. The statues were toppled by an earthquake many years ago. We spent the night at the summit in a tiny hotel where we experienced a thunderous storm that shook the hotel’s foundations.

Sanliurfa

• Sanliurfa is another “hard core” Eastern town. No tourists, just locals leading their lives as they always have. It’s religiously conservative so we had to cover up. Even then, Ally got loads of interested stares but the locals are wonderfully friendly and hospitable. The highlight of the town is a beautiful, lush garden with stunning mosques and lakes filled to teeming point with “sacred carp” that are revered by the locals. Definitely not the place for a fishing rod! When carp dies (usually of old age) it is buried with its own funeral service – no flushing down the loo for these fishy deities!

Harran

• We spent a fascinating morning wandering around Harran – one of the oldest continually inhabited cities in the world. The people here live in traditional beehive huts and spend their days moulding cow dung into blocks that can be used as fuel during the winter. We felt like we had slipped back 1000 years in time – until we saw a medium Coke sign hanging over the doors of one of the stone huts. Harran also provided an impressive fortress to explore – as well as the ruins of an ancient Muslim university.

Kizkalesi

• Kizkalesi is a beautiful town situated on the warm, blue Mediterranean Ocean. A serene, calm place. The best part of our stay here was swimming +/- 400m from the beach to an island castle 0- shown on this photo. After a slow, relaxing swim, we explored the castle at our leisure. We had the whole place to ourselves. The steps in the old tower were still in place, so we were able to climb to the top of the walls and walk along the castle ramparts. The view was spectacular.
• Here is an aerial view of our very own private castle hide-away. Few tourists seem to know about Kizkalesi because it is a bit off the beaten track. That, to me, is the greatest joy of backpacking. Discovering the slices of paradise far away from “package” bus tours.

Anamur

• Anamur is another quiet and scenic town on the Mediterranean. We hiked 6km along the beach and snuck over the sand dunes into this fantastic castle for free. I watched the most beautiful sunset I have ever seen from its turret. The doorman was oblivious to the fact that we were 50m above him. ON the following day we explored the ruins of an ancient Roman City that was abandoned +/- 1500 years ago when attacked by the Persians. It was rather eerie walking through the old homes and temple – all covered in creepers and vines. Felt a bit like Indiana Jones. Ally, unfortunately, has come down with a bad case of the “runs” – so she is rather poorly although feeling a bit better today.
• Ally is much better! We passed through Antalya on our way to Olympus. Ally, who hasn’t eaten anything but flat coke and bread for over two days, attacked a mighty portion of mutton like a ravenous carnivore. After changing money (Olympus has no such facilities as it is right out in the sticks) we were on our way again.

Olympus

• Oh, what bliss it is to stay in Olympus and live in a tree house! Ally and I stayed in a penthouse like the one in the photo (top left). It was called “Honeymoon Suite”. We decided to give the “Bunny Hutch” a miss – no point in tempting fate! We spent 6 lazy days hiking in the mountains, exploring the local ruins, lying on the beach soaking up the rays and making friends with fellow backpackers. The Tree House Camp is wonderfully rustic – the perfect place to stay in this natural paradise.

Oludeniz

• Another slice of paradise on Turkey’s Mediterranean Coast. This is a favourite destination for British package tourists – they fly them in by the busload – so the prices are considerably higher and there’s lots of white flesh about. However, the exquisite blue lagoon soon lets you forget about all that. We befriended the cutest puppy at our hotel named “moaning Minnie” because she whimpered every time she didn’t get any attention. Being backpackers, we were able to find a hotel for F2 per person. We’re becoming pros at finding the best value in town.

Oludeniz (cont.)

• We ended up spending two nights in Oludeniz – because our boat to Butterfly Valley kept on being cancelled dur to rough seas. We bought a big jar of honey (Turkish honey is to die for) and have been gorging ourselves on yoghurt and honey ever since – staple diet! We’ve come across some extraordinary spelling in Turkey. This was printed on a big board outside a restaurant: “Gordon Blue – Chisken Stek – Mashroom with Ches – Deassarts”. Their spelling may be suspect but the food was fantastic!

Butterfly Valley

• We arrived here in the middle of a “hippie” festival. Dreadlocks and loincloths everywhere you look. When the full moon came out they built a huge fire and danced round buck-naked. At breakfast, we tripped over people doing yoga. Weird – but they are friendly and we had a great time. The food was awful, cooked in a massive potjie by the hippies and served burned at 11pm at night – we began to starve so we hiked and climbed up the valley to a gorgeous and peaceful “family hostel” with great views and brilliant food. We could have stayed forever, but running out of time, we left after two nights for Fethiye.

Fethiye

• Fethiye is a great place to charter a yacht cruise at unbelievably cheap prices. We met a friendly captain at the harbour who said we could live on his boat for free until he’d found enough people for the cruise. We spent two idyllic days moored, visiting all the local sights. We discovered an amazing filter coffee and cake café close by (my first cup of filter in three months!) – and visited it so many times that the staff soon knew us by name.

Saklikent Gorge

• The Sakilkent Gorge was an exciting day trip. You arrive at the entrance to the canyon where you hand in your shoes and rent plastic ones from the ranger. Then you wade across a mini rapid and walk for miles through the gorge, wading through thick gooey mud and river pooh and climbing up little waterfalls – all the while gawking in wonderment at the beauty of the rock formations. Ally handled herself like a pro – she’s becoming every bit the hardy, rugged backpacker!
• Another scene from Saklikent Gorge. The restaurant in the park is a unique experience. You eat your meal on a platform perched over a roaring rapid – so noisy you can hardly hear yourself eat or speak – definitely the place for a shy couple on their first date!

Yacht cruise

• Our three day yacht cruise begins. There are 22 of us on the boat – 18 of whom are females. The guys simply cannot believe their luck – especially when they discover I’m taken. We visit a myriad of islands, bays, and coves. The coastline is gorgeous – but the weather is cloudy and wet (except on the final day). No one lets it get them down – there is lots of drunken debauchery. One of the girls is caught in a very compromising position with the Turkish captain – and is teased mercilessly for the rest of the trip.

Gocek

• This is one of the harbours we stopped at for a while on our cruise. A highlight for Ally and I was being pulled behind a racing motor boat as we sat in doughnut shaped lilos. The sadistic driver kept spinning in circles and opening his throttle as far as it would go – breathtaking stuff. I fell off once, Ally managed to stay on the whole time! The sun came out today, so we had some wonderful swims. We spent the night in Fethiye harbour again tonight – on the yacht. Tomorrow we catch the 5:30am bus (ugh!) to Ephesus.

Ephesus

• This is one of the best preserved Roman ruins left standing in the world today. It is enormous – the population here in Roman times was 250,000 – although 80% of the city is still to be excavated. It could take centuries to uncover completely. Massive theatres, beautiful temples, shops, brothels, public toilets, bath houses, libraries, sports stadiums are all amazingly well preserved. You get an excellent feel for what life must have been like 1500 years ago. The wealthy Romans certainly knew how to live in style. Later tonight we catch a bus back to Istanbul. I cannot believe our Turkey escapade is nearly at an end.
• Here we have the public toilets in Ephesus. As you can see, your “daily movement” was an intimately social affair – this was a great place to meet your friends and talk business and politics. When Ally and I sat on two adjacent holes, we found ourselves so close that our hips touched. Things weren’t too hygienic either – after doing your business, you’d scoop a handful of water from the gutter in front of you to do any necessary cleaning. Toilet paper hadn’t been discovered yet! A common practice amongst the wealthy was to send in your slave before you to warm up the seat! All part of their toilet etiquette. My lasting impression: this is definitely the most appropriate way for all politicians to meet, discuss and make their decisions because, let’s face it, they’re all full of shit!

Turkish Baths

• Mmmm! I get shivers all over just remembering this experience – the traditional Haman in Instanbul. First you relax on a warm slab in the beautiful marble room steam room. Then it’s time for a heavenly massage – the Turkish masseurs (males unfortunately) pour soapy water onto you with a giant sponge. Then you get scrubbed with a rough towel that takes off layers of dirt you never knew you had. The massage is good too – but you have to stop them cracking your back and neck! All in all a wonderful, relaxing experience. You come out feeling clean and more relaxed than you’ve ever been in your life.

Carpets

• Carpets, carpets everywhere. There are carpet shops in every tourist town, no matter how small and on all street corners you meet Turkish chaps with imploring puppy dog eyes saying “do you want to see my carpet shop my friend? For you, special price!” I must say, the carpets are beautiful – all hand woven on enormous looms by the local women. Some take weeks, even months to make. The good ones go for +/- B250 each. I might be tempted to buy one – one day – but certainly not now. The idea of carrying a carpet around in my backpack does not turn me on!

Patriotism

• Here is the Turkish flag. The turns are wonderfully patriotic and we soon learned you could use this to your advantage. Wear a Turkish flag t-shirt for example and you’re much more likely to get picked up quickly when hitch hiking. We didn’t hitch hike much because the buses in Turkey are really good but we did get one very exciting trip in an old dilapidated fire engine. Not only did they take us ½ an hour out of their way, but they also insisted on buying us tea. Bless them – the Turks are amongst the friendliest people you’ll ever meet. Buses are really comfortable (some even have on board hosts who serve coffee and biscuits) and dirt-cheap. The only hiccup is that many of the drivers drive like bats from hell along the windy mountain roads but we made it in one piece!

Ataturk

• Ataturk, the hero of Turkey. He may have died nearly sixty years ago but his picture still stands in pride of place in every restaurant, shop, hotel and home. His statue presides over every town square. This is the man who “single handedly” whipped the British and Australians at Gallipoli in World War One. After that he drove off the marauding Syrians before becoming one of the most astute politicians in the world’s history – to carve out and preserve the state of Turkey as we know it. No Ataturk then – no Turkey today. A pretty amazing man – no wonder he is a legend today.

Summary

• Our route around turkey. I fly back to London tomorrow. I’ll be very sorry to leave Turkey – it has made an extremely favourable impression on me, especially the friendly people, delicious food and gorgeous scenery. Here are some words that sum up Turkey for me:
• Sweet baklava pastries, Turkish delight, stuffed aubergine, Iskender kebabs, yoghurt and honey, carpet shops, ischekar ederim (thank you very much in Turkish), friendly smiles, moustaches being shaved with a cut throat razor (took lots of trust!), splashes of lemon juice as a freshener, manic bus drivers, apple tea, soaring mountains, winding roads, clear blue sea, monopoly money, changeable menu prices (inflation is 85% p.a), male only cafes, Ataturk, raki (traditional alcoholic drink), bustling bazaars, galloping chickens, Hamams (Turkish baths), colourful scarves and dresses, Turkish music, mosques, the call to prayer, Ally (it was wonderful to travel with her again!).
• We’ll be in London for 10 days, and then we fly into Delhi in India for our next adventure.

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My Travel Notes


Gallipoli

• Tues 16 - Arrive in Cannakale - managed to get across border for free - smellier than ever been in my life. Traveling for 36 hours. Book into hotel, do our washing, shower, eat kebab. Glorious. Watch documentary on Gallipoli and bit of movie.
• Wed 17, go on a tour of Gallipoli with tons of Australians and New Zealanders. Windy, overcast day matches mood of place.
• Impresions: Both Turks and Anzaks throwing themselves over the trench to certain death by machine gun. Value systems so entrenched in loyalty to country. Turk and Anzak trenches only 7 m apart. Turkish hero ignored orders and rushed for the high ground with his men - saving the war. British officers order men to die - think they are an inexhaustible source. 

Istanbul

• Thurs 18, day of bussing to Istanbul - after a mighty breakast of kebab, soup, pizza etc on me.
• Friday 19, lazy walk around Istanbul - great restaurant for traditional Turkish pankakes - women cook in middle, Turkish music and dancing. Turkish food is Fantastic - egg plant is national dish with all sorts of combinations. Spicy chilles, cracked wheat, lamb, chicken, rice pudding etc. We are eating like pigs.
• Pick up Ally from airport.
• Saturday 20, starts off very tense for me but as day progresses, I calm down. Ally and I soon fall into a comfortable, loving, precious union.
• We visit the Blue Mosque and St Sophia museum (christian church converted to a mosque). Mosaic picture of empress daughter and husband (who forced to marry later in life due to pressure) - she very unhappy so has string of boyfriends so mosaic artist kept in constant employ.
• Sun 22, visit Topkapi Palace with wonderdful Israeli guy (Shaggar) - vast network of royal rooms and treasures beyond wildest belief. 48 kg solid gold candlesticks, gold daggers with emerald handles and diamond encrusted, swords, thrones, Tea sets etc. Priceless sumptuousness. Catch night bus to Cappadocia (Goreme).

Cappadocia

• Mon 23, arrive early - exhausted - collapse at Paradise Hostel in bedroom for 4, wake late afternoon for meal and minibus to watch sunset. Amazing rock formation (fairy chimneys, sculptured valleys) with houses and churches built into them. Russel and I climb to top of hill overlooking valley for spiritual experience and sunset - then hurtling descent that impresses all. Look for nightlife in cave bars.
• Tues, hike with our group and Ryan (hippie American) and Tino (Dutch tour guide) through valleys exploring open air museum (churches with frescoes - eyes cratched out because bue and green denote evil eye) and other more inaccessible spots. We discover the Garden of Eden - orchards of apples, pears, tomatoes, beans, peppers and grapes in valley. Share lunch with a friendly local and he shows us a cave house (Chatteau) with chimney stairs to upper stories. Fantastic tunnels and rooms to explore.
• Wed 24, go on tour. Pidgeon valley. Underground cities built by Christians to escape persecution. Clambered through chimneys and ladders. Secret alley ways and escape hatches - all underground cities were connected - furtive creatures these early Christians. Ally does potting - and creates a huge penis beyond her control.
• Then to Ihalara valley for hiking through riverine canyon and lunch. Tour leaves us behind to camp for night. Sleep - then to local hot spring. After hiccup (have to wait for it to heat up), we have glorious time stewing in the hot waters.
• Thurs 25, late wake. Explore some old church caves in the muntains. Tour bus picks us up. To Soleme - where Star Wars was filmed - fantastic warren of tunnels and caves. We climb steep staircase up and up to a view at top of mountain. Then to pottery exhibition (Ally gets to try - clay becomes enormous penis). Finally, stop for sunset at Fairy Chimney Valley. That night, we visit Oriental restaurant for wonderful food.
• Fri 26, fairwell breakfast to Russel and Kate. Russel not happy to be alone with Kate and Kate very sensitive. Not happy chappies. Ally, Shaggar and I head off for Eastern Turkey.

Malatya ( Nemrut Mountain)

• Arrive in Malatya after 8 hour journey. On bus, I spend hours poring through dictionery and play word games with Ally. Eat spicy dried sausage. We stay at urine smelling hostel (Asya). Eat at fantastic, dirt cheap restaurant (Istender Kebab with yoghurt). Food in Turkey is a highlight - always tasty and fresh. We have been eating like pigs. Malatya is wonderfully untouristy - relaxed town with sweetshops everywhere.
• Sat 27, more Istender Kebab, then buy nice tracksuit top and toiletries. Epic mini bus journey to summit of Nemrut - splendid rugged scenery. Thick fog at top obscures view but adds to atmosphere of temple - heads of statues on ground and 50 m high man made hill - created by order of egomanical king nearly 2000 years ago.
• Being taught how to eat pancake by enthusiastic restaurant owner.
• I exclaim my praise to the Great Mystery from a windy promenade. We spend night at hotel near summit where experience thunderous storm.
• Sun 28, we plan to hike to summit and find lift to Khata but Shagger and hotel have flaming row over prices and Ally and I decide to rather go back to Malatya. Good decision because clouds remain and Ally is sick. Shaggar has huge fight with hotel owners.
• We find a nice hotel (Park Otel). Spend relaxed day making love, exploring Bazaar (cheap and very little hassle) and eating at great restaurant (Buyuk Kent). Speciality is Doner Kebab. Ally finds a bug in her mutton which dampens our euphoria a little. Waiter treats as "What can I do about it?" Speak to Jo on phone.

Sanliurfa

• Mon 29, My birthday! Arduous bus journey to Sanliurfa. I memorise my Mission and associate it with different parts of my body. Great potential.
• Stay in Dogu Hotel. We read naked in bed - peeper looks over door window (needed a chair to do it).
• We meet Shagger again - with a young Turkish chap (Yusuf).
• Spend evening walking streets (old church, lush garden with pools with sacred carp.) Little kids with their coined English phrases "Where you from.", "What is your name", "How are you." Ally' throat still sore afer week. I may be getting throat infection and feeling run down (headaches and fever)
• Tues 30, we vivist Harran. Bee Hive houses and an impressive old fort. Big fight with Yusuf - he suddenly wanted more money. Shaggar and he fight - threatened with PKK.
• Ally and I relax at tea house in garden, then climb steep tunnel to summit of hill-top fort for wonderful views (I like to do this because it always gives me great perspective).
• We meet friendly young Turkish guy learning English (Muhammet) "Would you like to be my guest for the evening." Meet his uncle and friends. Shagger decides to change his plans and come with us to Kizkalesi. Stuff ourselves at new retaurant for 2 for R15. NB Try new things - don't stick with the satisfactory!!

Kizkalisi

• Wed 1, bus to Kizkalisi. Nice sea side town with two castles (one on an island 300 m offshore). Great view from hotel (Alper) though not worthy of their card with false photo of huge swimming pool. Relaxing afternoon and early night.
• Thurs 2, Ally has the runs from supper. We swim to castle - exciting exploring city walls. Ally caught short. Lie on beach afterwards. Play pool till late.

Anamur

• Fri 3, to Anamur. Ally straight to bed while Shagger and I visit local castle - a 6 km walk. Skulk in over sand dunes for free, huge place with high ramparts. Cheekily watch doorman from tower. Best sunset of my life. The sky is on fire and the wonder and glory of the GM unfolds. Hitch and walk back.
• Sat 4, Ally still sick with bad stomach. Shagger and I visit ghost city of Anamorium. Abandoned by Romans after plunder of Persians - very intact with great beach setting. We go for walk along beach for sunset. Ally feeling slightly better but Im feeling like shit - fighting something. Feel low.

Olympus Tree Houses

• Sun 4, long road to Anatalya. Bus over cliff with body on stretcher - accidents galore. Change money - refuse to accept small portion at restaurant. Catch bus - then catch hitch on a firetruck to Olympus. Friendly firemen smoke at petrol station. Friendly - thank with beers. Tree houses great - real backpacker place. We meet up with Kate again who has left Russel. He gave her his bible!!
• Hitch hike - picked up by olf fire engine. Windy arrow road. Petrol station - smoke. Pay for our drinks.
• Mon 6, Ally feeling emotionally low - she lost her pillow and is still in pain that our future is not assured. We really chat - have been very open with each other and are having some great converations. Still unsure about my future and what I want.
• Bowels are main topic of conversation wherever you are - not taken for granted.
  I have learned to juggle with three balls (stones) thanks to Shagger. Ally writes her journal everyday - she loves it. I still collect and write postcards for family - but send them all in a big envelope.
• Tues 7 - Sun 12. Relaxing days of lazing in our tree house (Honeymoon Sweet - not Bunnyhatch) and beach, chatting to fellow backpackers. Yoghurt and honey. Mmmm! Volleyball. Table Tennis. Puppy dog and cats. Meet funny guy (John) - great stories. Feeling a bit bored.
• Great spiritual experience on hilltop ruin overlooking sea. Very powerful. Awesome view of ocean and coast. Throw huge rocks into sea. Jump off cliff into sea.
• Atmosphere of Tree House area almost comatized. Too much effort to leave. Kate has job working two hours washing dishes - she eats for free. Free supper - stuff myself. Juggling with stones on beach. Skimming them along river. Toilets don't flush properly - floaters! Ruins all clothed in vines and trees. Eat Pommegranite fruit - delicious.
• Go on cruise in fishing boat - clear, blue water to swim in. Beautiful, shale beaches.
  Owner of Kadir - rolly, polly character "Yum, yum, pig's bum. Romantiek Flame Tour / Fishing Trip." Chickens play American football with bread.

Oludeniz

• Sun 12, catch bus to Oludeniz. British package tourist place. In my grimy clothes and backpack, I feel very superior! We have fun with "moaning Minnie", a cute puppy at our hotel who whimpers when she doesn't get attention. Expensive supper with hideous glass of red wine - send it back.
• Mon 13 - Buy yoghurt and jar of honey from caffee. Our staple diet. Explore the Blue Lagoon. Lie with British tourists. Skim stones and swing on rope attached to tree. Write a poem about gravity. Lie on main beach and swim. Send postcards home. Phone Gramps. So wonderful to hear his voice. Supposed to catch boat to Butterfly Valley - but too rough so we spend another night with Moaning Minnie.
• Tues 14 - More yoghurt. Give magazine to 2nd hand book shop owner. He is so touched, he ofers me a book for free - Exodus. Boat is delayed so spend more time on beach. Meet Irish girls from Olympus and travel in tiny vessel to Valley.

Butterfly Valley

• The Valley has been taken over by hippies for the "Rainbow Gathering." Lots of dreadlocks, flowing clothes, and some loin cloths. 70 year old yoga master (gets himself into Pretzel like shapes) and his 20 year old girlfriend. We put up tent.
  Valley is beautiful - cliffs on three sides with good beach and clear water. Moon shining on cliffs is spiritual. Supper works by food circle - still waiting for it at 10:30 that night. Nothing but yoghurt all day. Finally form a circle, hum tunes and wait for plates to be filled (from mighty potjie pot) and passed one by one around circle. Torture - especially when taste burnt!! They had tried to disguise with cupfulls of cury powder. Curried charcoal. Pepper and salt to the rescue.
• Meet Australian band singer with tales of India, Lebanon and Syria. Great bar on cliff side.
• Huge bonfire - and buck naked hippie dancers disappearing into the "sweat tent" for divine inspiration. I wish I had joined in! What did you learn, I ask Irish girl. One chap was hung like a horse.
• Australian chap is > 40 and traveling for 3 years (spent 14 months just reading with 2 hour breakfast. Loves food - galeti + hargendas.) I realise you choose your own life.
• Wed 14 - Walk up the cliff to George's House with Irish girls. Very steep with ropes and great views. The house is a dream - set in a little farm at the top of the valley - overlooking the whole valley and sea beyond. Open living area wih friendly guy, Bevon, New Zealander who got sucked in.
• Best food in Turkey - bottomless bowls of heaven. Orgasmic yoghurt, fresh from the cow. Communal sitting in a circle, dolloping spoonfulls onto bread. Messy, but wicked. Meet Dion, long haired South African. Professional golf player, working in London as an ecstacy dealer and rave organizer. Also, a sexy Australian girl - Emma.
• Plunge in cool spring. After blissful day (lunch = R9!!), we return to beach. Build a fire on beach. Dance in circle with hippies "I open my eyes to you. I open my heart to you. I lift up my heart to the sun. Our loving hearts are one." "May God's blessing fall upon you. May his peace abide within you. May his presence illuminate your heart. Now and forever more."
• All the while, staring into strangers eyes. Stifled laughter at first - some real stoned stares - but really good.
• Self: Wonderful spiritual contemplation at top of gorge, overlooking valley from rock ledge. Feeling much more centered. I am trying to be non critical of people I meet - loving, see people as souls. Valley is truly spiritual place. Very self conscious with girls.
• Thu 16 - Return to George's house. On way, listen to person piping in the valley.
• Hauntingly beautiful. Creation inspired by God. Spend relaxing day reading, working on my compilation of lessons for life (amazing, but danger of becoming obsessive.)
• Meet Kate again with Scott. More wonderful food - bottomless bowls of traditional Turkish food that eat with thin bread. All falls out to make a mighty mess. Easy to tell who is a veteran and who is new from spillage on laps.
• We walk up road for sunset. Ally and I get seriously deep about life. Her big distractor: Being scared of being disliked by people. Bad experience when she was in Std 1 and moved to Cape Town. "No one wanted to be my friend."
• I have a nasty case of the runs so go on a 24 hour starvation bout to kill the bugs. Real hard wih all this delicious food on offer.
• Fri 17: Climb back down into valley to collect tent and bags. Farewell to Kate and Scott (a guy she met at Olympus). Kate writes an exquisite story about a crab that goes in search of the sky.

Fetiye

• We catch boat to Oludeniz where meet British couple. I ravenously gulp down a chicken roll and yoghurt. Catch Dolmus to Fetiye. Find a yacht that still needs 4 people to go. We get free accomodation in a cosy cabin. Explore the waterfront. Discover a waterfront cafee that serves filter coffee and delicious cake. Make great love in cabin. Go out for fishy meal. Toilet in our cabin is of limits so we have to walk 10 minutes to toilet in harbour. After a while, we pee in cup and throw out of window.
• Sat 18: Another day moored in Fetiye Harbour. Visit Saklikent Gorge - deep, skulptured canyon with shallow river to walk along and through. Rent plastic shoes. Ally does well at scrambling over rocks - good for her confidence. Muddy business! Restaurant seats perched over gushing rapids.
• Sun 19: Rainy weather. Quiet day, walking round markets. Supper with our friendly captain and three other guests ( New Zealand girls). Good fun dancing after supper. Coffee and cake with our new found friends - the waiters. I finish my book, an excellent "who-dunnit" called "Undue Influence."

Yacht Cruise

• Mon 20 - Wed 22.   Mostly girls on board (18 girls - 4 guys). All Australian and New Zealand. Friendly and relaxed. Food excellent. 100 foot yacht. Weather wet and cold except for last day. Loud music and dancing till 5 am every morning. Captain full of card and match tricks. Drum beating to Abba. Go on doughnuts behind boat. I go for swim to discover I cannot get back onto boat. Party goes on all night to disgust of other yachts and people trying to sleep. Guy divebombs woman.
• I read article on Vincent Van Gogh - new insights into opening out and really seeing things (16 different shades of yellow in wheat)
• Thurs 23: Our next stop is Ephesus. Taxi drivers try to rip us off - Ally loses her patience. Communal public toilets. (just the right place for politicians!) - used slaves to warm up the seats. Amazing Library - restored by the Austrians. Huge theatre.

Istanbul

• Fri 24: Arrive in Istanbul after a long night bus journey. Exhausted. Decide not to return to Athens - buy a ticket direct to London. We watch a movie (Speed 2) and visit a Turkish Bath . Steam room, then lathered, massaged and scraped by a masseur. Watch out for the clicks!
• Unbelievable meditation lying on the slab, looking up at the domed roof. Totally relaxed. Wonderful food at local restaurant.
• Sat 25: Ally goes shopping. I sulk that she spent money - grow up!! Ally leaves for Cape Town, I watch movie with Canadian chap - then go out for supper.
  Sun 26: I tell hilarious sex stories to American - really excel myself. I read lots of financial times and Economics. Hong Kong collapses - and soon its flu starts to effect other markets.
• Fly to London.

Impressions of Turkey

• Lemon freshener, squat toilets, aubergine, baskets (bins) of bread, yoghurt and honey, carpet shops, Turkish baths, Teshikur edirim - thank you very much, choc gazel - very good, Iskender kebap (lamb on deep fried bread with yoghurt), Turkish Delight, Beclava (sweet pastries), galloping chickens, moustaches, manic bus drivers and chocolate biscuits, winding mountain roads, rice puddings, road crashes, changeable menu prices, monopoly money, raw restaurant food on display, Apple tea, spraying water on sidewalk, male only cafees where play games, Attaturk, the Hero, Raki, Bazaars, misspelt names on menu (Gordon Blue, Chisken Stek, Deassarts, mashroom with ches.
• Bus frivers from hell, smoke with petrol tank on side, bumps smack ash off ciggie, windy mountain passes, slow down where accidents, then speed up again.

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Ally's Journal

Ally kept a journal of our time in Turkey which is available at the link below.

Ally's Turkey journal

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Next stop

• India