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Showing posts with label Tanya. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Tanya. Show all posts

11 July 2022

A wonder world of sea ice just 1100 km from the north pole

On the third night of our expedition, the ship travelled ever further north so that when we awoke, we had reached 80 degrees north, way north of the Svalbard archipelago.  This is just over 1000 kilometers from the north pole and is the furthest north The Greg Mortimer had ever been.  

And what a wonder world greeted our eyes!  Sheets of sea ice as far as the eye could see.  After doing lots of research on sea ice for our lessons, it was a thrill to finally experience it.

It was a treat to watch the ship cutting through the ice with its specially designed streamlined bow. I stood on the front observation deck, mesmerised by the sight, hardly noticing the frigid chill in the air, and even managed to get some video which I include below.

This ice we were experiencing is annual.  It freezes every winter, up to a meter thick, and then melts away as the summer goes on.  

The sea ice is prime hunting ground for polar bears as it is frequented by seals, their main prey, but we didn't see one.  We did see a bearded seal though, lazing on the ice, as the ship passed by.


Sea ice as far as the eye can see


The streamlined bow of the ship breaking through the ice


Watching mesmerised from the observation deck








A bearded seal sitting on the pack ice


The ship breaking the ice


A vast sea of ice behind us


Tanya enjoying the sea ice from her cabin balcony


It's time for a polar plunge!


What does one do when one is just over 1000 km from the north pole and there is plenty of frozen ice in the ocean?  Leap into the ocean, that's what!  

Our polar plunge was the northern-most plunge Aurora has ever done!  28 of us, including 10 expedition team and crew, took the leap. Cheer squads formed on outer decks as Scott, our expedition photographer, captured our leaps and facial expressions.  

Our dream team decided to all leap together and you can see the photos and video below.   Richard is a Wim Hof devotee who has a cold shower every day and regular ice baths.  Unphased by the freezing water,  he was in no hurry to get out, unlike the rest of us!  

To be honest, it wasn't quite as cold as I was expecting.  It felt similar to the temperature of some of the frigid canyons I've swum in in the Blue Mountains where the water never sees the sun.  

As happens with freezing dips, we felt amazing afterwards; on a complete high.  Cold water is a well recognised way to get dopamine flooding through your system and is even recommended as a treatment for depression.  I think you're onto something Jo with your early morning ocean swims!


Gavin takes the initiative by leaping (diving headfirst!) slightly before the rest of us.


There's no turning back now1


You can see the dawning recognition on my face that this is going to be decidedly cold!




At the end of the expedition, we were given this certificate and a t-shirt by Aurora which I thought was a wonderful and delightfully humorous touch.

10 July 2022

Close encounters with great white bears

There is something so wondrous and emotive about a polar bear.  In a way, the polar bear is the Arctic. The sight of such an impressive, solitary, silky white bear wandering the frozen Arctic ice in search of seals symbolises the cold, isolated nature of the Arctic perfectly as well as the great strength and endurance required to live there.

Here are some fascinating facts about polar bears that I gleaned from my research


Polar bears are the only bears to be classified as marine mammals because so much of their life depends on the ocean when it comes to food and habitat. The polar bear is the only marine mammal with powerful, large limbs and feet that allow them to cover kilometres on foot and run on land.

They are huge; by far the largest carnivore on land. Males can weigh up to 800 kg which is over half the weight of a Toyota Corolla and over twice the weight of the largest male lion. 

The preferred habitat of polar bears is the annual sea ice in The Arctic where the ocean is relatively shallow. This is the habitat that allows them to hunt seals by ambushing them at breathing holes or creeping up on them. Stealth hunting is by far the most energy efficient way for a polar bear to hunt.  Walking bears use 13 times more energy than resting bears.

The fur of the polar bear appears white due to the way it reflects and refracts light, helping to camouflage the polar bear. However, the hairs are actually not white but hollow and semi translucent like optic fibre, allowing the sun to reach the bear’s black skin where it is absorbed, providing a much-needed boost of heat. 

Polar bears like to be clean and dry because matted, dirty, and wet fur is a poor insulator. 

Human polar explorers have to wear special goggles to avoid snow-blindness, countering the dazzling reflection of sunlight off the white terrain. Polar bear eyes have built-in membranes that perform the same job, filtering out damaging UV radiation.

Polar bears have massive 30 cm wide paws that are the size of a dinner plate.  They have considerable fur on the underside and they act like snowshoes to distribute their weight over a larger area. This helps them walk on thin ice and traverse deep snowdrifts.

Polar bears have an extremely acute sense of smell. According to the Guinness Book of Records, if the wind is in the right direction, they can detect a seal as far away as 30 km, which gives them the most sensitive nose for a land mammal.  Through smell, a bear can also detect a seal buried under 1 m of snow.  Since their sense of smell is better than their sight, when they stand up on their hind legs, it is to smell the breeze rather than to look.

Polar bears are so well insulated that they have more problems with overheating than they do with cold, especially during the summer and if they run.   If they begin to overheat, they go for a swim or dig a hole into the ground and lay against the permafrost to cool off. 

Despite their seemingly unwieldy gait and enormous weight, polar bears are strong walkers.  A polar bear's home range is far greater than that of other bears.  They can travel up 3,000 kilometres per month and can have home ranges bigger than the state of California. While most polar bears limit travel to home ranges of a few hundred kilometres, one satellite-tracked female was recorded trekking 4,796 km — from Alaska to Greenland to Canada and back to Greenland again!

Polar bears are also very strong swimmers.  Despite their bulk, polar bears regularly swim distances of 75 km at a time. They can sustain a swimming pace of 10 km per hour.  According to The Guinness Book of records, the longest distance swum by a polar bear in one go is a staggering 685 km in the frigid Bering Sea which equates to 20 trips across the English Channel – logged over a period of 9 days straight in 2008. During the swim, the bear lost 22% of her body mass.

Polar bears spend over 50% of their time hunting for food and they have to be very persistent.  A polar bear might catch only one or two out of 10 seals it hunts, depending on the time of year and other variables. 

The diet of polar bears mainly consists of ringed and bearded seals. Polar bears need an average of 2 kg of fat per day to survive and these seals are rich in blubber. They can eat more than 45 km of blubber in one sitting. One of their most remarkable adaptations is the ability to thrive on this fat-rich diet without heart damage.

Unlike brown and black bears, polar bears are capable of fasting for up to several months during late summer and early fall, when they cannot hunt for seals because the sea is unfrozen. Instead of hibernating like other bears, they live off their fat reserves. To build these fat reserves, they have the capacity to eat large amounts quickly (holding an estimated 15 to 20 percent of its body weight in their stomach) and then go for weeks or even months without feeding.

In some areas, polar bears will occasionally take adult walruses, but walruses are formidable prey (twice the size of a polar bear with long tusks) and are very difficult and dangerous to subdue.  Polar bears have also been known to prey on beluga whales  and narwhals by swiping at them at breathing holes. Studies have also photographed polar bears scaling near-vertical cliffs to eat birds' chicks and eggs.

Bears leave behind their scent in their tracks which allow individuals to keep track of one another in the vast Arctic wilderness. During mating season, a male may follow the tracks of a breeding female for 100 km or more and after finding her, engage in intense fighting with other males over mating rights.

After the female mates, the fertile eggs don’t implant and develop until the autumn, 4 to 5 months later, and only if the female has enough fat to sustain herself and her cubs during the long denning period. This process is called delayed implantation.  During these months, the pregnant female eats huge amounts of food, gaining up to 200 kg and often more than doubling her body weight.  She needs to do this because the process of gestation, giving birth and raising her cubs in the early stages (which all happens in the den) may require her to fast for as long as 8 months despite not properly hibernating.

Polar bears can breed with brown grizzly bears to produce fertile bear hybrids known as ‘grolar bears’ or ‘pizzly bears’ and do so sometimes do so in nature.  As wild hybrids are usually birthed from polar bear mothers, they are raised and behave like polar bears.  The ability for polar bears and brown bears to interbreed is unsurprising when you consider that polar bears evolved from brown bears as recently as 150, 000 years ago.

Polar bears hold great spiritual and cultural significance for indigenous communities.  The word "Nanug", which is Inuit for polar bear, means an animal worthy of great respect, or the ever wandering one. The Ket (a Siberian tribe) uses the name "Gyp" meaning grandfather. The Inuit have many folk tales featuring the bears including legends in which bears are humans when inside their own houses and put on bear hides when going outside.

Polar bears are normally aggressive to dogs but not always.  In 1992, a photographer near Churchill took a now widely circulated set of photographs of a polar bear playing with a Canadian Eskimo Dog, a tenth of its size. The pair wrestled harmlessly together each afternoon for 10 days in a row for no apparent reason.

Want to know more?  Here is our research on polar bears.


We encountered 7 polar bears during our Arctic adventure


Polar bear have always captured my imagination and they were the animal I was most excited to see and photograph on our Arctic expedition.  Aurora Expeditions told us that they see polar bear on virtually every trip that they do but a little voice in my voice occasionally said, "Oh dear, what if we are the exception!"

Well, I needn't have worried. During our time in the Arctic, we saw 7 polar bears and had some amazing encounters that will remain amongst my most cherished memories forever. It really was a dream come true and felt quite surreal at times.  Below is an account of our encounters and the photographs I got to take.


Encounter 1:  A bear does a jig on the rocks at Utre Norskoya  (2 July)


After breakfast on the 2nd full day of our expedition and getting ourselves outfitted for some hikes on land, a call came through to the expedition team - a bear had been spotted! We immediately changed from landing operations to Zodiac cruising. 

We made our way towards the location where the bear was last spotted and kept a lookout for it along the shoreline. As we went, Gavin jokingly said something like, "Imagine if a bear were to suddenly appear and get onto that rock over there and do a dance for us!"  We laughed. Yes, wouldn't that be something.

Then suddenly, one of the kayakers spotted the bear!  It was swimming in the icy water, just off the shoreline.  It can be much harder to spot a bear in the water due to its low profile, so it was a lucky break. From our zodiacs, we watched in wonder for about 10 minutes as the bear swam. 

Then, to our absolute delight, the bear clambered up onto the shore of the small rocky island and walked over some beautiful, photogenic rocks, allowing me to to get my first proper photos. It climbed right up onto the tallest rock as Gavin had uncannily envisioned and while it didn't exactly do a dance, it did a little shimmy and stretch.  Then it ambled back to the water for another swim, and eventually made landfall on another spit of land where we were able to view the bear in more detail in a round-robin Zodiac dance. I got more photos and even managed to take a bumpy video snippet which I include below. 

Our first ever encounter with a polar bear left us elated and totally and utterly in love with these extraordinary creatures.


My first elated sight of a polar bear, swimming though the icy waters


Against a stunning backdrop, the bear gets out of the water  (photo courtesy of Tanya)














The bear heads back towards the water...


... and gets back in...


...only to clamber onto another spit of land.








Who could have asked for a better encounter!


The zodiac was moving so the video is shaky. But what a memory!


Encounter 2:  A bear frolics in the snow on White Island's ice cap  (5 July)


Kvitoya, otherwise known as the 'White Island' is the real ‘Wild East' of Svalbard: a polar desert, rugged, cold, desolate - you get a true sense of what surviving in the arctic is like upon visiting this island.  The island was enveloped in a dense fog as the Greg Mortimer approached the coastline this morning. However as breakfast wrapped up, the fog lifted and one of the passengers spotted a polar bear on the snow. The Expedition Team confirmed the sighting from the zodiacs and we went out on zodiacs to observe the bear, who was frolicking in the snow upon the massive Ice cap of Kvitoya. The bear was very far away, virtually a faint speck on the horizon, and so my photos are very blurry but I include them below as a memory of our 2nd bear sighting.



Encounter 3:  A bear pays its respects to Salomon Andrée at his monument on White Island  (5 July)


After the bear encounter described above, we made our way along the coast of White Island towards the monument that exists there commemorating Salomon August Andrée, a Swedish engineer and polar explorer, and his 2 crew who died on the island after a failed hot-air balloon attempt to cross the North Pole in 1897. The balloon went down, laden down by ice, and they then managed to get to White Island by trekking over the sea ice for two months. However, within two weeks of reaching landfall, they perished.  Their fate was a mystery until their bodies, dairy and photographic plates were discovered 33 years later. There is controversy over how the men died. One theory is Salomon died by eating the toxic liver of a polar bear and another is that he fell into the ocean and drowned while hunting a polar bear.

Salomon August Andrée (1854 - 1897)


Photo of the balloon shortly after its descent onto pack ice. Photo plates were found near the bodies.


The reason I mention all this is that as we neared the monument to Saloman Andrée by zodiac, another bear was spotted!  The bear walked along the shore near the monument and then, wonders of wonders, it slowly strolled right up to the monument and ponderously sniffed it as if to as if to pay its respects to Solomon Andrée or investigate if  he was still around!  I managed to capture this special moment as you can see in a photo below.

That day was the only occasion I was on a different zodiac to Gavin, Richard and Tanya.  They also got to see the bear from their zodiac and managed to do something that Gavin had dreamed of doing ever since conceiving the idea of teaching lessons directly from the Arctic ice: Introduce his lesson on polar bears with a real polar bear lurking behind his right shoulder!  There were other passengers on the zodiac that day (also unusual) but they were only too happy for Gavin to do his short introduction while Richard filmed away and then panned to the bear over Gavin's shoulder.  When Gavin finished his introduction in his distinctive, animated style, the other passengers on the zodiac spontaneously applauded, all of them very much caught up in the moment and Gavin's passion and excitement.


The bear walking along the shore ...


...towards the monument...




... then stopping at the monument as if to investigate if Solomon Andrée is still around


Encounter 3:  2 adult bears and a cub delight us at Kramerpynten (5 July)


After the two bear sighting described above, The Greg Mortimer repositioned along the East coast of White Island to Kramerpynten - the most eastern point of Svalbard - for the afternoon's excursion. The white of the ice cap was stunning with the contrast of the bright blue sky and the dark gray of the seas.  Immediately upon reaching the shoreline, our zodiacs discovered a bear walking towards the beach and, two minutes later, a mother and a yearling cub popped up from their hiding place directly in front of the other bear - 3 bears just in front of the zodiacs!  We watched in awe as the cub snuggled lovingly with its mother on the shore. The wind was raw and cold but nobody seemed to notice.  To experience a mum and her cub was one of the undoubted highlights of our entire trip.

The beautiful mum and cub


Bears are usually solitary so it was quite unusual to see two adult bears together like this


Encounter 4:  A young bear journeys along the coastline at Torellneset (7 July)


After an absolutely idyllic, sunny morning exploring the sea cliffs of Vegafonna, the world's 3rd largest polar cap, we headed by ship onto Torellneset, a headland at the southwestern side of Nordaustlandet. There we got onto zodiacs to explore. Almost immediately, we sighted a young polar bear moving along the coastline at a steady pace.  As we  watched from a distance, the bear, unperturbed by our presence, continued his journey for a kilometre or more until we left him in to continue his journey and went to see the frolic of walrus further back towards the ship. Yet another wonderful bear sighting.









7 July 2022

Creating video lessons on location in the Arctic

What we came to the Arctic to do


Our primary purpose for coming to the Arctic was to put together a series of videos, filmed on location, that will form part of a unique series of lessons for Upschool that educates children all over the world for free about the wonders of the Arctic and the importance of sustainability, environmental conservation and doing whatever we can to tackle climate change.  The lessons will allow children to relate the learnings to their own home environment and support them in taking their own actions to make a tangible difference in their own communities.

Aurora are a very environmentally aware company and a passionate champion of wild and remote places and so this fits in closely with their values and ethos.  We simply couldn't have asked for a better partner.  They have done all they can to make it possible and to help us along the way.

Here is Gavin introducing the Arctic course that will be available in October ...



Each of us in the team has an area of expertise that fits into the mix.  Gavin is the ultimate teacher.  Richard, co-founder of Upschool with Gavin, has a wealth of experience as a videographer.  Tanya is a writer and editor.  As photographer, my role is to take photos for use in the the Upschool blog, media articles and lesson resources.  I also fulfil a role as researcher.


What lessons are we teaching on the Arctic?


Lessons we are covering include:
  • Geography of the Arctic and its constantly changing landscape
  • Arctic climate and why it matters to us all
  • Sea ice and why it is so important that it doesn't all melt
  • Glacial landforms and why they matter
  • The Arctic food chain and how it's all connected
  • The flora of the Arctic
  • The wildlife of the Arctic with a focus on Polar Bears
  • Arctic birds, with a focus on the Arctic Tern
  • The indigenous people of the Arctic and what we can learn from their connection to nature and sustainable practices
  • Resource exploitation in the Arctic (and elsewhere) and why its not sustainable
  • What each of us can do in our communities to make a difference

Here is a lesson overview that Gavin put together that provides more detail.


Making video lessons on location in the Arctic


Before we came to the Arctic, I helped Gavin do a lot of research on the topics we were planning to cover.  There is a huge amount to know and the research for some lessons covered many pages.  Gavin has a vast knowledge of many things, especially geography, but, even to him, it must have felt a little daunting to have to become an expert on so much in such a little period of time and have all the knowledge at his finger tips when doing the lesson videos. 

Then we got onto the ship and the first thing that struck us was the wealth of expertise on the ship.  Aurora hires incredibly high calibre  experts on a wide array of topics to do lectures on the ship and help guide zodiac and shore expeditions.

For example, on our expedition, there was...
  • Ulyana:  Ice scientist and glaciologist
  • Jocelyn: Botanist and naturalist
  • Danielle: Marine biologist
  • Snowy: Ornithologist
  • Ben: Historian and indigenous peoples expert
  • Daniel: Climate expert

We had always planned to interview the experts but we decided to go one step further and turn the video component of the lessons into more of an interview and discussion format with Gavin asking relevant questions and the experts providing fascinating answers.  Many of the experts have been involved in teaching or lecturing in the past and all are really passionate and eloquent.  And all the experts, when we explained the concept, were really excited at the chance to get their message out to children.

So that what we did!

Whenever we went out on zodiac expeditions, Aurora allocated our team our very own zodiac and allowed us to decide which expert we wanted to come with us that day.  Many of our interview lessons were done on the zodiac with relevant backdrops.  For example, when Gavin introduced the subject of polar bears, he had a real polar bear behind his shoulder as he had always envisioned!  Other lessons were done on land during our shore landings.

It all worked really well and it's been a wonderful solution all round.  Gavin did not need to pretend to be an expert on everything and it took a lot of pressure off him.  The children will get to experience a wide variety of different teachers and personalities, all passionate and inspiring, so it adds to the interest of the lessons.  And Aurora gets to showcase the depth of high calibre expertise that it makes available to its passengers on each expedition. 


Here we are in action creating video lessons



Jocelyn, botanist and naturalist


A lesson with Danielle, marine biologist, with an iceberg behind


Gavin doing a lesson with Ulyana, ice scientist, on the subject of glaciers with a glacier behind


A lesson with Jocelyn, botanist, on flowers and insect pollination in the Arctic


A lesson with Ulyana, ice scientist, sitting on a real glacier


A lesson with Ulyana on the hydraulic viewing platform on the topic of sea ice. Behind her is sea ice as far as the eye can see.


Gavin with Ben, expert on Arctic history and its indigenous people


Gavin with Snowy, ornithologist, talking about the Arctic Tern and its pole to pole migration


Gavin with Daniel, climate expert


Richard videoing a lesson on the zodiac. 


I love this pic of Richard.




Me doing what I most love to do


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