Life Trove

21 March 2023

Day 11: Drygalski Fjord & Cooper Bay

Tanya's Dairy

It’s a beautiful morning when we arrive in South Georgia. The Captain of the Greg Mortimer, Vadym, and the expedition leader, Christian, make a special announcement! We’re going to slowly cruise through the Drygalski Fjord to take in the magnificent sights; the towering rock walls sprinkled with waterfalls, the soaring ice cliffs and the palatial Risting Glacier ahead of us. Drygalski Fjord is 14km long, named after Eric von Drygalski – the leader of the 1901-03 German Antarctic expedition. The mountains on the southern side are basalt and lava originating from underwater volcanic activity, and the other side is the ancient remains of the super continent named Gondwana. This is one of the only places in the world where these two distinct types of rock formation can be found.

Captain Vadym manoeuvres the ship 360 degrees and as we turn, the Upschool team record a lesson on the Ozone layers with environmental scientist Ella. Gavin and Ella talked about the Montreal protocol from 1987 where the whole world worked together to tackle the global problem of climate change, the mountains slowly receding behind us. In a moment of absolute serendipity, as Ella spoke about the threats of climate change, a distant crack sounds, and we capture the moment a glacier calves into the sea.

The afternoon takes us to Cooper Bay and another breathtaking Zodiac cruise! We snag Bia as our Zodiac driver and zoom over to a beautiful enclave surrounded by rocks with streams of bull kelp clinging onto them. Behind us looms some dark and cavernous rock cliffs, which makes the backdrop to our next recording on designing a kelp sanctuary in your school’s library, with Jordan from Young Art USA. We create a lesson on kelp and how it helps us to balance our climate whilst providing a safe haven for the creatures that live in this area. Seaweed stores a lot of carbon dioxide from the atmosphere, hence curbing climate change, and also provides a sanctuary for seal pups to hide from leopard seals.

Bia takes us around the bay of rocks filled with four types of penguins; Macaroni, Gentoo, Chinstrap and King. As we round the corner, we all gasp in awe – swimming, playing and dancing in the bay beside us are hundreds of young fur seals, cautious yet curious about us as we slowly approach. It is an indescribable feeling as we coast by quietly, careful not to disturb the serenity of the moment. Time stands still as we watch them twirl and spiral through the water. Further along on the shoreline, we see Macaroni penguins, more fur seals, and giant Petrels. We record a lesson with Bia on Macaroni penguins and how they hunt, breed and feed.

My Account

Morning ship cruise along Drygalski Fjord

As we journeyed up the Drygalski Fjord towards the Risting Glacier, we were immersed in a mesmerizing landscape of ice formations and towering cliffs. The dramatic meeting of sea and ice unfolded before us, with the fjord's pristine waters reflecting the captivating blues and whites of the glaciers. South Georgia Island's rugged coast provided a breathtaking backdrop, and we marveled at the snow-covered peaks rising majestically in the distance.

Wildlife encounters enriched our experience. We spotted seals resting on ice floes and various bird species soared overhead. Finally, upon reaching the Risting Glacier, we stood in awe of its massive ice wall, a testament to the power of nature.

At the mouth of the fjord

Half way along the fjord

Marcus and Tania, 2 amazing photographers

The Risting Glacier at the end of the fjord

Doing lessons

Afternoon Zodiac cruise at Cooper Bay

Cooper Bay provided a Jurassic Park like experience with so much wildlife at close quarters that it filled us with wonder and awe. Macaroni penguins, King penguins, Chinstrap penguins, Fur seals, petrels, pipits, pintails, elephant seals, a leopard seal. An experience none of us will ever forget.

South Georgia is much greener than Antarctica

Macaroni penguins

I was so excited to see my first Macaroni penguins, the 4th species of penguin we encountered on our expedition. They are such weird looking creatures with their distinctive "hairdo."

Here are some interesting facts about these quirky birds:

Macaroni penguins have a striking yellow-orange crest that extends from their forehead to the back of their heads. This crest, which resembles a hairdo, is made up of long, thin feathers and is responsible for their name. They were named after 18th-century English dandies called "macaronis" who wore elaborate wigs and fashionable clothing.
Macaroni penguins can be found in the sub-Antarctic and Antarctic Peninsula regions, with large breeding colonies on islands such as South Georgia, Crozet, Kerguelen, and Heard Island.
They are one of the most abundant penguin species, with an estimated population of around 9 million breeding pairs. However, they have experienced population declines in recent years due to factors such as climate change, overfishing, and habitat disturbance.
Macaroni penguins primarily feed on krill, small shrimp-like crustaceans, but they also consume fish and squid when available. They are known to dive up to 100 meters in search of food.
These penguins are monogamous and return to the same breeding site year after year. They build their nests on rocky slopes or cliffs using pebbles, grass, and mud. Macaroni penguins usually lay two eggs, but only the second, larger egg is typically successful in hatching and being raised to fledging.
Macaroni penguins are well-adapted for life in cold environments. They have a layer of blubber for insulation, tightly packed feathers for waterproofing, and specialized nasal glands that help them excrete excess salt from their bodies after consuming seawater.
They are strong swimmers, capable of reaching speeds of up to 24 kilometers (15 miles) per hour, and can travel long distances in search of food during the breeding season.

Chinstrap penguins

I loved my first encounter with Chinstrap penguins at Hydrurga Rocks in the Antarctic Peninsula so I was delighted to unexpectedly see them again. Just a few individuals nestling on rocks on the shore, two venturing down to the water's edge for a swim.

Fur seals

Antarctic Fur seals are abundant in South Georgia and have some captivating features. Here are a few fascinating facts about these marine mammals:

Antarctic fur seals were hunted to near extinction in the 18th and 19th centuries due to their prized fur. However, since the implementation of conservation measures, their population has rebounded significantly. Today, South Georgia is home to approximately 95% of the global population of Antarctic fur seals.
Fur seals display marked sexual dimorphism, meaning males and females have different physical characteristics. Males are significantly larger than females, with males weighing up to 200 kilograms (440 pounds) and females weighing around 40 kilograms (88 pounds).
The breeding season for Antarctic fur seals in South Georgia typically starts in November and lasts until January. During this time, male fur seals establish territories on the beaches and compete with each other for access to females.
Male Antarctic fur seals are polygynous, meaning they mate with multiple females during the breeding season. A dominant male, or "beachmaster," can have a harem of up to 20 or more females.
Female fur seals give birth to a single pup and nurse it for about four months. The mother alternates between foraging trips at sea and nursing her pup on land. Pups learn to swim at an early age and become independent after weaning.
Antarctic fur seals primarily feed on krill, but they also consume fish and squid when available. They are known to dive to depths of up to 200 meters (656 feet) in search of food.
Fur seals have natural predators such as orcas and leopard seals, which may prey on them while they are in the water. On land, fur seal pups are occasionally targeted by birds of prey like skuas.
Fur seals belong to the family Otariidae, which are known as eared seals. This distinguishes them from true seals, which lack external ear flaps. Eared seals have visible ear flaps and are more agile on land due to their ability to rotate their hind flippers forward.

Elephant seal

A male elephant seal deliberately waded out towards us, giving us a menacing glare as a warning. Its intentional display reminded us to respect its territory and maintain a safe distance from these powerful animals. You don't want to mess with such an enormous beast!

Leopard seal swim under the zodiac

Another leopard seal curious to see what strange floating beast was brave enough to invade its territory.

My first sighting of King Penguins

I felt a surge of excitement at my first encounter with king penguins. Their regal appearance and unique markings were even more impressive in person. The sight of these magnificent birds waddling along the beach and interacting with each other in their natural habitat was unforgettable.

Giant Petrels float on the ocean surface, close to the zodiac

From the zodiac, we had amazingly close encounters with Giant Petrels floating about in the ocean. They were completely fearless!

Southern Giant petrels are large seabirds found in the Southern Ocean, including around South Georgia. Here are some fascinating facts about these impressive birds:

Giant petrels are among the largest seabirds in the Southern Ocean, with wingspans reaching up to 200-210 centimeters. They can weigh up to 5 kilograms.
Like other members of their order, giant petrels have a unique nasal structure called "tubenose." These tube-like nostrils on top of their beaks aid in excreting excess salt and help the birds detect food by their enhanced sense of smell.
Giant petrels are opportunistic feeders and known as the "vultures of the Southern Ocean." They scavenge carcasses of seals, penguins, and other seabirds, but also prey on live animals like fish, squid, and krill. They can even hunt down smaller seabirds or take unguarded penguin chicks.
Giant petrels are known for their aggressive behavior, especially during feeding. They can fiercely defend food sources and use their strong beaks to fend off other birds.
Both species of giant petrels breed on South Georgia, with the northern giant petrel having a larger breeding population on the island. They nest in colonies, often in close proximity to other seabirds. Females lay a single egg, and both parents share incubation duties for about 60 days.
Giant petrels are known to be long-lived, with some individuals reaching over 30 years of age. They have a delayed maturity, typically starting to breed between the ages of 6 and 10.
After the breeding season, giant petrels disperse widely across the Southern Ocean. They can cover vast distances, with some individuals traveling thousands of kilometers away from their breeding grounds.
In both species of giant petrels, males are generally larger than females and have a more massive beak. Additionally, the southern giant petrel displays color dimorphism, with some individuals being almost entirely white while others have darker plumage.

Sheathbills cling to vegetation of the shore

Snowy sheathbills are a distinctive species of birds found on South Georgia Island. With their all-white plumage, plump bodies, and thick red bills, they stand out among the island's other native birds. Sheathbills are opportunistic scavengers, with a diet that includes a wide range of food sources such as krill, fish, invertebrates, and carrion. Interestingly, they are also known to steal food directly from other seabirds, including penguins, and consume their eggs and chicks, showcasing their adaptability in the sub-Antarctic environment.

A South Georgia pipit struts its stuff on shore

The South Georgia pipit is a small passerine bird and the southernmost songbird in the world. Endemic to South Georgia Island, it boasts a unique melodic song that brightens the sub-Antarctic landscape. The species faced threats from invasive rats, which preyed on their eggs and chicks, but successful eradication efforts have led to a resurgence in their population. Remarkably adaptable, these resilient birds can be found in a variety of habitats, from coastal tussock grasslands to mountainous regions, foraging for insects and other small invertebrates.

A South Georgia pintail comes close to zodiac

The South Georgia pintail is a subspecies of the yellow-billed pintail, native to the South Georgia Island. This striking duck features a dark brown head, a yellow-tipped bill, and a long, pointed tail that distinguishes it from other ducks. As an opportunistic feeder, the South Georgia pintail consumes a varied diet consisting of aquatic plants, invertebrates, and even carrion. Its ability to thrive in the harsh sub-Antarctic environment demonstrates the remarkable adaptability of this unique bird.

Skuas purvey the land for opportunities

18 March 2023

Day 8 - 10: Passing Elephant Island and crossing the Scotia Sea

Tanya's Diary

We had an interesting day on the 18th, with the weather deciding most of the day’s activities! The initial plan was to go ashore at Penguin Island, the giant stratovolcano that looms above the surface of the ocean. This volcano was estimated to be last active about 300 years ago. On the east side of the island is ‘Petrel Crater’, estimated to have erupted in or around 1905. Unfortunately, due to the weather conditions – large swells and winds up to 48 knots – we weren’t able to get close enough while maintaining safety for all involved. A heavy mist was rolling in as well, affecting our viewing abilities.

So instead, we decided to take care of the South Georgia biosecurity requirements. These are in place to ensure the safety of the flora and fauna in South Georgia, to protect the ecosystem of the area, and for other general biosecurity reasons. To ensure we are compliant with the protocols, we spend the morning carefully checking our exterior clothing, our gloves, our hiking gear, and anything that would be touching the South Georgian ground. In the lead up to our first landing at South Georgia, in a few days, we will continue to have the occasional biosecurity parties, as we’ve been calling them, to ensure we meet the strict requirements of the area.

We spend the afternoon attending some interesting lectures – Bia speaks on the life of a humpback whale with a talk titled ‘From tropics to ice and back again, and Jeff gives us a history of polar exploration and ‘Shackleton’s Endurance’. As the ship cruises past Elephant Island, we are lucky enough to have a brief window of sun shine down around us – the sky clears up just enough for us to catch a sight of Elephant Island.

We head east across the Scotia Sea and as we travel, fin whales cruise alongside us, seemingly guiding us onwards, in what can only be described as a magical experience. We say our goodbyes to Antarctica and look ahead towards South Georgia.

The 19th and 20th of March were spent crossing the Scotia Sea and as such we made use of our time on board to listen to lectures and record educational content for Upschool. Jeff delivered a lecture on Otto van Nordenskjold’s Swedish Antarctic expedition, Pat delivered one on Antarctic weather, the cyclonic storms of the area and how the weather in the Antarctic region influences the climate of the whole planet. The Upschool team met up with Pat, the marine biologist, to discuss recording the video on wild weather as they anticipated a large storm heading into the Scotia Sea on the 20th March.

The morning of the 20th March took us further across the Scotia Sea towards South Georgia. We enjoy another day of fascinating history and knowledge with a lecture about the seals of the Southern Ocean by Hannah, our naturalist and wildlife specialist on board, and one on whaling and its effects by Bia, a marine biologist. The afternoon brought on the snow storms we were hoping for and we quickly utilised the weather to create the educational lesson with Pat.

As the seas calmed and the winds settled, it was time to get ready for South Georgia and the beauty that we would behold.

My Account

Passing Elephant Island

Elephant Island is is where Shackleton's crew were stranded for several months while he and few others navigated in a tiny vessel to South Georgia to get help during their ill fated 1914 - 1917 expedition to Antarctica. I was struck by how barren, stark and icy it looked. Not the kind of place you'd choose to stay for a long stay unless you really had to!

Wandering albatross off the ship

It was truly wonderful to see the wandering albatrosses glide gracefully close to our ship in the Scotia Sea. These magnificent birds are the epitome of beauty and endurance and are the undisputed masters of The Southern Ocean.

Here are some fascinating facts about wandering albatrosses that make them even more awe-inspiring:

Wandering albatrosses have the largest wingspan of any bird in the world, which can reach up to 3.5 meters. This allows them to soar effortlessly over vast ocean expanses with minimal energy expenditure.
These birds are known for their extraordinary long-distance flights. They can travel thousands of miles across oceans without needing to land, and are known to circumnavigate the Southern Ocean three times in a single year, covering over 120,000 kilometers.
Wandering albatrosses have an impressively long lifespan for a bird, with some individuals living over 50 years. They mate for life and typically lay one egg every other year, taking turns to incubate it and protect it from predators.
Wandering albatrosses feed on squid, fish, and other marine life. They are known to dive as deep as 5 meters to catch prey, and they can even snatch food from the water's surface while in flight.
Wandering albatrosses have a complex and intriguing courtship display that includes a variety of vocalizations, bill-clapping, and synchronized movements. These displays help to strengthen the bond between mates and can last for several hours.
Unfortunately, wandering albatrosses are currently listed as vulnerable by the IUCN Red List, mainly due to threats from longline fishing and plastic pollution. Conservation efforts are underway to help protect these amazing birds and their habitats.

Grey headed albatross

I was thrilled to see the grey-headed albatross for the first time. This species is known for its stunning appearance, with a distinctive grey head, black bill, and a white body with contrasting dark wings. The sight of these beautiful birds in their natural environment was truly mesmerizing.

Here are some interesting facts about grey-headed albatrosses:

Grey-headed albatrosses breed on remote subantarctic islands, such as South Georgia, Kerguelen, and Crozet Islands. They build their nests on steep, tussock-covered slopes to protect their eggs and chicks from predators.
These albatrosses primarily feed on squid, fish, and krill. They are known to travel vast distances in search of food, sometimes covering more than10,000 kilometers in a single foraging trip.
Like other albatross species, grey-headed albatrosses are excellent long-distance fliers. They utilize dynamic soaring techniques to conserve energy and can travel at speeds of up to 68 miles (110 kilometers) per hour.
Grey-headed albatrosses form long-term monogamous pairs and share the responsibilities of incubating their single egg and raising their chick. The birds return to the same nesting site each breeding season, which occurs every two years.
Grey-headed albatrosses reach sexual maturity at around ten years of age. Once they reach maturity, they begin their search for a mate and establish their own breeding territory.
The grey-headed albatross is also classified as endangered on the IUCN Red List. The primary threats to this species include longline fishing, climate change, and habitat degradation. Conservation efforts are ongoing to protect these beautiful birds and their habitats.

Sooty albatross

Another new species for me, the Sooty albatross is a medium-sized albatross species that primarily inhabits the sub-Antarctic and cool temperate regions of the Southern Hemisphere. Distinguished by its dark, sooty-brown plumage and a wingspan that can reach up to 2 meters, this seabird is well-adapted for long-distance flight. The sooty albatross feeds primarily on squid, fish, and krill, using its sharp beak to snatch prey from the ocean surface. It breeds on remote islands, constructing nests on steep cliffs and slopes to avoid predation. With a low reproductive rate and long-lived life expectancy of up to 40 years, sooty albatross populations are vulnerable to threats such as longline fishing, climate change, and habitat degradation.